Tug Problems
#353689 - 01/16/2012 02:24 PM |
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I started playing tug with McCaskey (pit-mix) recently, but he is all over the place. He's really excited about the toy, but when I tell him it's okay to play he tries to tackle it (with paws/legs), and when he jumps and lunges for it he's not targeting the toy with his mouth. Usually he jumps straight at the middle/centre of my body, and most times when he jumps for the toy his mouth isn't even open.
I have the Leerburg/Michael Ellis DVD: The Power of Playing Tug with Your Dog, but it doesn't really address dogs who don't know how to tug. I'm confident that my presentations are good (going straight back away from him), but he is still getting my hand and knuckles. I tell him no and stop playing for a minute. His prey drive is so intense though I'm having trouble dialing him down a level.
Any suggestions on how to actually get him onto the tug?
Forgot to mention, that the next step I have planned is to post him. I'm thinking that if I can keep him off of me I can keep his focus on the tug.
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Re: Tug Problems
[Re: Tiffany Aiche ]
#353690 - 01/16/2012 02:35 PM |
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Have you tried to mark a touch with nose or grab on the toy at all? This was big with one I worked with. Perhaps if he knew you wanted him to grab it with his mouth, it would make a difference as silly as that may sound. What if you toss it? Does he use his mouth then?
If I remember right, you aren't supposed to correct a dog for getting your hand until he fully understands the game and plays it well, that way you don't create hesitation during the learning process. What kind of tug are you using with him out f curiousity?
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Re: Tug Problems
[Re: Tiffany Aiche ]
#353693 - 01/16/2012 03:24 PM |
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I had the *same* issue with my dutchie...he is also a very high drive manic dog. LOL He would use his feet, claws or anything to get the tug. Start out with something that's not his favorite and real easy for you to hold and stuff. I find that the handle tugs are harder to use but the narrow long red tugs on LB are great. My dog's fav tug is a rolled washcloth, but I end up with bruised cut fingers if I am not careful. That said I'm going to wait until you answer the questions above, I'm curious too.
A tired dog is a good dog, a trained dog is a better dog. |
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Re: Tug Problems
[Re: Tiffany Aiche ]
#353694 - 01/16/2012 03:24 PM |
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I haven't tried tossing it. And when I say no, it's not a correction as such, more of a negative marker -- you know, just a simple "nope". I've tried all of the tugs that I have: leather, French linen, firehose, and one other (jute, maybe, or burlap). He did best with the firehose, but it is the smallest (thinnest) tug and if he does manage to get on he doesn't slide off and then I have a hard time keeping ahold of it. (He's strong and could pull it out of my hands if I'm not careful.)
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Re: Tug Problems
[Re: Tiffany Aiche ]
#353696 - 01/16/2012 03:31 PM |
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I would keep the distance between his mouth and the tug very short. No jumping or misses or any of that. Have you worked on outing with him?
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Re: Tug Problems
[Re: Tiffany Aiche ]
#353697 - 01/16/2012 03:51 PM |
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I haven't tried any misses with him yet. The out, along with play/engagement, was my priority when I started tugging with him.
I might be trying to be too animated with the tug since his prey drive is so intense, but that was one of the big things in the DVD: make the tug move! So I could probably try shortening the tug jumps, and maybe slowing down? It just seems so bizarre that a dog with such high prey drive is having such a hard time of getting onto the tug.
Thanks for all the help/input so far!
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Re: Tug Problems
[Re: Tiffany Aiche ]
#353698 - 01/16/2012 03:52 PM |
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I would conside this more of a shaping exercise at this point (sort of like in the beginning of a sit- you wouldn't tell a dog he was doing it wrong if he sat crooked or if his butt was not in correct position, instead you would positively mark the attempt or wait without a mark until it was correct) But that is just how I took it.
Does a handle help you keep a hold of it? I would have the tug that works best with him and take the opportunities when he pulls it away to shape the re-engagement with you. It will probably give him some more interest if he "wins" the tug from you pretty frequently in the beginning anyways. Use it to your advantage
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Re: Tug Problems
[Re: Tiffany Aiche ]
#353699 - 01/16/2012 03:53 PM |
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Edited by Amy VandeWeerd (01/16/2012 03:53 PM)
Edit reason: duplicate post- oops!
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Re: Tug Problems
[Re: Tiffany Aiche ]
#353700 - 01/16/2012 03:59 PM |
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I'm just guessing, but I think you may be animating yourself along with the tug. I'm not exactly sure whats on the dvd, but what I'm thinking is more using the rebite after a clean out to teach the targeting.
Imobilize the tug, out, rebite, tug. If he pulls it away from you, encourage him to come forward with it to you. And if he's getting your hands or clothes, jumping on you, Nope. You're right, negative marker.
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Re: Tug Problems
[Re: Tiffany Aiche ]
#353701 - 01/16/2012 04:01 PM |
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Yeah what I did with my dog was actually tie him with a flat buckle collar on, he was so fast and hard to control I had to (or somebody can hold the dog). So there he was barking lunging for the tug without any teasing or anything. I pretty much put it in his face rather than him chasing it. Eventually I would not tie him but have him sit for it (I have the Bernard Flinks DVD) and then say "get it" real close to his nose. As I got better with it and he got better I started letting him miss it and jump and all that. So in our case, maybe not the best to move the tug at first. LOL
A tired dog is a good dog, a trained dog is a better dog. |
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