 A couple questions
#356181 - 02/26/2012 09:11 AM |
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O.K. got the marker training dvd. Watched it once. A little over 1/2 way watching it again, this time with my wife. I have a couple questions right now
First, Ed says in the video not to use toys as a reward unless the dog outs the toy on the first command every time. So, how do I teach the dog to out the toy on the first command every time?
Second, I'm a little unclear on how to add the command to an excercise. I get that you don't do that until "you love it" but it never really explains exactly how to add the command, unless I'm missing something.
Third, If my 3 year old female lab already sits and downs reliably, althoug not always as fast as I'd like, should I reteach her with markers?
Fourth, do you focus striclty on one excersize every time you work until that excersize is where you want it?
Thanks,
Kory
Fourth,
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Re: A couple questions
[Re: Kory Fox ]
#356183 - 02/26/2012 09:33 AM |
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O.K. got the marker training dvd. Watched it once. A little over 1/2 way watching it again, this time with my wife. I have a couple questions right now
First, Ed says in the video not to use toys as a reward unless the dog outs the toy on the first command every time. So, how do I teach the dog to out the toy on the first command every time?
Hold the toy very still, so that it isn't exciting any more. When the dog lets go, mark and reward. Then when they start to do it regularly, hold it still, say "Out", then mark and reward on the release. Then when the toy is more important than the food, just give them the "Out" and when it lets go, mark and reward by giving the toy back and letting them play. I use a tug.
Second, I'm a little unclear on how to add the command to an excercise. I get that you don't do that until "you love it" but it never really explains exactly how to add the command, unless I'm missing something.
When the dog starts to do what you want them to do by luring, mark it and reward. When they are consistent, lure them and say sit, down, stand, whatever it is you want to call the exercise. They will catch on really quick that the command goes with the action. After some repititions you can eliminate the luring.
Third, If my 3 year old female lab already sits and downs reliably, althoug not always as fast as I'd like, should I reteach her with markers?
I would say yes(pun intended  ) but it likely won't make her any quicker. Michael Ellis says that the speed of the exercise is dependent on the drive of the dog. The snappy sits, downs, stands and other exercises you see on the vids are Mals with LOTS of drive. My GSD has German Schutzhund Blood Lines, and he is nowhere near as quick as those dogs.
Fourth, do you focus striclty on one excersize every time you work until that excersize is where you want it?
It doesn't hurt, but you can mix them one the dog really KNOWS the commands.
Thanks,
Kory
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Re: A couple questions
[Re: john ralston ]
#356199 - 02/26/2012 02:26 PM |
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i've found when initially training a command the dog catches on MUCH more quickly by working only on that command in the training session. you can always switch to another at the next session, but i recommend one (new) command per session. JME
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Re: A couple questions
[Re: Kory Fox ]
#356203 - 02/26/2012 03:39 PM |
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ann, what I meant was, do you only focus on one excersize every time you train, no matter how many times, until you get that excersize the way you want it before you start to work on something else?
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Re: A couple questions
[Re: Kory Fox ]
#356323 - 02/29/2012 05:20 PM |
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ann, what I meant was, do you only focus on one excersize every time you train, no matter how many times, until you get that excersize the way you want it before you start to work on something else?
bumping thread
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Re: A couple questions
[Re: Kory Fox ]
#356332 - 03/01/2012 02:42 AM |
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ann, what I meant was, do you only focus on one excersize every time you train, no matter how many times, until you get that excersize the way you want it before you start to work on something else?
Keep in mind that you don't want to become stagnant in trying to keep your dog interested in training. Teaching a behavior with a command should be done in short, energetic, up-beat sessions. In one session, work on ONE command for 5 minutes, then go do something else (playing is fun!). In your next session you can work on a different behavior with a command for 5 minutes.
If your going to work the same command session after session until it's perfect, it will be very difficult for your dog not to figure out that what your doing is not fun and you won't be able to hold his attention. Remember to keep it fun! Keep it positive! And absolutely no corrections in the phase of learning a command!
p.s. - Some people use a marker to let the dog know when it's time to train. (ie. "Time to go to work!")
Cassy & Leo enjoying a nap.
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Re: A couple questions
[Re: Kory Fox ]
#356336 - 03/01/2012 08:00 AM |
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It's crucial to remember if you or the dog starts to get frustrated it's time to stop the session and de-stress with something fun.
Always end any session on a high note.
If your dog is having a "blonde" moment and just isn't getting it, do not get frustrated.
When my dog starts giving me every behaviour in the book i realize it's because he's not understanding what I want and is going through his repertoire (that's probably spelt wrong) in the hopes it's what I want.
At that point I give him a command he definately knows, jackpot him and end the session on that note.
Don't complain....TRAIN!!! |
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Re: A couple questions
[Re: Kory Fox ]
#356339 - 03/01/2012 10:58 AM |
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ann, what I meant was, do you only focus on one excersize every time you train, no matter how many times, until you get that excersize the way you want it before you start to work on something else?
FWIW, my six month old puppy knows how to do lots of things, with close to zero words attached. They aren't polished behaviors by any means, mostly just simple tricks, but he does know them. Yes, it often takes him a few guesses to figure out what I want, but that is not a big deal to me at the moment.
Dogs are very sensitive to context, though and I do take advantage of this. For example if we are working on targeting, the target will be on the floor. If we are working on picking stuff up, there will be small objects lying around. If I don't want him to interact with anything, the room will ideally be clean and bare. Just the way you position yourself (inside,outside, specific rooms, standing, sitting, direction you are facing etc.) can make a big difference in comprehension if you do it the same way most of the time for that specific action.
Yeah, I worry about him getting bored and I don't want to push perfection at the moment.
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Re: A couple questions
[Re: Kory Fox ]
#356345 - 03/01/2012 11:19 AM |
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I think moving from one training behavior to another depends on your skills. You never want to stop out of failure or frustration and move onto something else. Get a good behavior even if it isn't a complete exercise. Then you can move on to another that the dog understands and end on success.
Beginners need to fully understand why and how dogs learn.
This is a given for ANY level of training.
old dogs LOVE to learn new tricks |
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Re: A couple questions
[Re: Bob Scott ]
#356355 - 03/01/2012 12:35 PM |
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... You never want to stop out of failure or frustration and move onto something else. Get a good behavior even if it isn't a complete exercise. Then you can move on to another that the dog understands and end on success.
I wish I'd said this.
Also, if I ever have failure or frustration in a session then (1) it has probably been too long a session, and (2) I need to do what Wendy said and give a cast-iron standby that the dog will be successful with, mark and reward, and end the session on a successful note, with the dog wanting more. 
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