not certain the best approach to this
#391004 - 05/16/2014 06:46 AM |
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There's something crappy that Logan will do and idk what posesses him to do it.
I'll have a ball on a string or tug...I'll out him and then mark and release. Instead of going for the toy...he goes for my hand...bites down so I'll drop the toy and then he runs around with it. It pisses me off every time.
He doesn't do it often....rarely in fact. Normally I don't even need him on a lead while fetching or playing tug anymore but sometimes a short drag lead. I'm not sure the best way to correct/prevent this. Before I can recover from the bite and grab the lead or do anything he is already away with the ball like "haha!"
The game is always over once he does that. Last time he did it I was next to the house and shoved him into the wall as he went directly for my hand not the rope or the ball, then put the toys away and left him a lone for a while.
And I'm 100% certain he is not just missing and grabbing me by accident or higher in drive than usual and just looses it...its not like that.
He does it in this situation: when not retrieving and I have to put him back on a lead and work on him bringing it back via back chaining....that's when he gets me.
Any tips anybody?
A tired dog is a good dog, a trained dog is a better dog. |
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Re: not certain the best approach to this
[Re: Tresa Hendrix ]
#391005 - 05/16/2014 07:25 AM |
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I'd collapse on the ground making loud "YI YI YI" injured puppy sounds, curled around my hand, turn my back to him, game over.
He can learn not to do this.
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Re: not certain the best approach to this
[Re: Tresa Hendrix ]
#391018 - 05/16/2014 12:55 PM |
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Is it his intent to end the game? Is there something else he would rather be doing?
It almost sounds intentional, but what would be the motivation?
Sadie |
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Re: not certain the best approach to this
[Re: Tresa Hendrix ]
#391019 - 05/16/2014 01:20 PM |
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And I'm 100% certain he is not just missing and grabbing me by accident or higher in drive than usual and just looses it...its not like that.
He does it in this situation: when not retrieving and I have to put him back on a lead and work on him bringing it back via back chaining....that's when he gets me.
I think you better concentrate on prevention. You've had him a long time. This reads to me like a dog who's telling that you aren't going to make me do this and I don't think you should try at this point.
He's an older dog now. I think you should be satisfied with what he'll do willingly.
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Re: not certain the best approach to this
[Re: Tresa Hendrix ]
#391023 - 05/16/2014 02:55 PM |
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Does he like your reaction when the game ends? Sometimes I'm convinced Carlin does things just because he is so operant that he gets enjoyment out of making things happen.
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Re: not certain the best approach to this
[Re: Tresa Hendrix ]
#391030 - 05/16/2014 11:08 PM |
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This sounds like total disrespect.
Hard to say without seeing it but "IF" a dog of mine intentionally did that then the reward based training would take a back seat to a "come to Jesus" discussion with the dog. That of course is what your capable of and wiling to do with the dog.
Obviously the dog's temperament would be a huge consideration.
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Re: not certain the best approach to this
[Re: Tresa Hendrix ]
#391035 - 05/17/2014 12:18 PM |
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Gotta say that I think that this dog has your number & is just going to keep on testing you if you don't put a stop to it. Not only that...if he sees that he continues to get away with this crap...even if occasionally....he is eventually going to take it up another notch.
A dog that is biting you regardless of how often....if it is intentional, & this sounds like it is...to me needs to have that 'come to Jesus meeting'. If you do not feel that you can do that or handle that physically or emotionally...then you need to find a way NOT to put yourself into a position that he can take that kind of advantage of you. Because it WILL EVENTUALLY escalate. Maybe one day when he is having an off day or just not in the mood to play your game.
I can tell you that you need to find a solution to fix this or find another game to play with him that doesn't allow him to take advantage of you like that.
I have a HA dog (seriously so)& can tell you that if I hadn't dealt with it when it first started to appear & it took a couple of 'meetings' to get the point fully across ....that I would have eventually been badly hurt. I don't believe your dog is anywhere near like mine is, but it is still unacceptable & you run the risk of getting hurt if you don't find a solution of one kind or another. Fix it or find another game to play with him to stay safe.
MY DOGS...MY RULES
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Re: not certain the best approach to this
[Re: Tresa Hendrix ]
#391054 - 05/19/2014 08:27 AM |
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Thanks everyone for the responses...I finally got time to come back and reply. Probably looked like a post and run until now.
I agree a "come to Jesus" would be appropriate...I'm not sure how to do it effectively and safely. If corrected hard with a prong, he will down automatically but also show his teeth unless he is close to me then he turns his head towards my leg and I do not like that, plus no correction has ever shut him down if that makes sense...like even once he took off after a squirrel that darted by us on a walk, hit the end of the lead hard enough to flip him as I braced to not be knocked down, yelped, got right back up and looked for the squirrel, just kept the lead slack that time. If restrained, he will fight back.
A tired dog is a good dog, a trained dog is a better dog. |
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Re: not certain the best approach to this
[Re: Duane Hull ]
#391057 - 05/19/2014 08:48 AM |
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Is it his intent to end the game? Is there something else he would rather be doing?
It almost sounds intentional, but what would be the motivation?
Sometimes he wants to play keep-a-away, but I never play that game with him...the closest thing to that is I chase him when he has no toys he loves that! He mostly seems like he wants to carry it off and chew on it by himself.
Does he like your reaction when the game ends? Sometimes I'm convinced Carlin does things just because he is so operant that he gets enjoyment out of making things happen.
He was parading around with the kong and I went inside and he stood staring at the door with the kong in his mouth, like "why'd you leave" then laid down with it...not very effective.
A tired dog is a good dog, a trained dog is a better dog. |
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Re: not certain the best approach to this
[Re: steve strom ]
#391059 - 05/19/2014 09:14 AM |
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I'd collapse on the ground making loud "YI YI YI" injured puppy sounds, curled around my hand, turn my back to him, game over.
He can learn not to do this.
Hmmmm...I wonder if a high pitched sound would work.
I think you better concentrate on prevention. You've had him a long time. This reads to me like a dog who's telling that you aren't going to make me do this and I don't think you should try at this point.
He's an older dog now. I think you should be satisfied with what he'll do willingly.
Yeah I'm thinking when I'm about to toss it I should probably just always make him do something (down, sit, stand, run around a pole etc) step away then release and toss, no chance to grab my hand.
A tired dog is a good dog, a trained dog is a better dog. |
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