Does anyone know how to teach a dog car manners? More specifically putting an end to barking and clawing at windoas whenever we pass livestock. We live in a rural area, and pass a half dozen farms (sheep, goats, horses and cattle) on our way into town or a park for a hard run.

We've tried crating, he's almost getting aggressive over that now. I've tried seatbelts. He can still get to the windows.

He probably wants to be up front with me, he paces up there, in addition to the barking and clawing.

I take my dog's for stockdog training about 2 hours north of us... But he barked and clawed long before that. We have tried a kong to last long enough to get to a park.

Any thoughts? Questions? I'm not always the most clear of communicators.

before getting him to your car, have a long walk with your dog to make sure to drain his energy.

Then, you can ask a friend to drive while you are sitting on the back with your dog on the leash with a dominant dog collar on to correct him every time he starts going crazy when you're passing the farm.
pair the correction with the word of your choice that you will be using, later on, to require him to behave in those type of situations.

Please note: consult your local dog trainer to teach you how to use the dominant dog collar properly, don't try to just wing it yourself if you never have done this type of training before because you might be putting yourself and the driver in a dangerous situation.
perhaps, your local trainer should help you with initials couple of sessions in the car under those situations.

repeat this training till you get your dog under control.


Moderator note: Please see Bob Scott's post later in this thread.

Edited by Connie Sutherland (12/30/2018 11:01 PM)
Edit reason: Add moderator note

IMHO, I agree only partly with Paul's advices.
A walk to use up some of his energy, yes.

Correction NO! If the correction is just a verbal one you should first make sure the word "no" or whatsoever has a meaning for the dog. This has to be trained in different situations so he really understands what "no" means.

If the correction is a physical one (e.g. pop on the leash) do this only once your dog has 100% understood, what you want him to do or not to do. As long as he hasn't understood this fully a physical correction will be useless and unfair.

If you want to get him used to the crate, make sure to do it in a way that he will learn to love it. He should like it as if it were his personal sheltering and snug cave.

If you want him to get used to the car, you should train him in baby steps to get him accustomed to it.

And above all, don't link two training goals together as long as he hasn't got each one of them separately. This would only confuse him. Don't rush.

 Quote: Christina Stockinger

IMHO, I agree only partly with Paul's advices.
A walk to use up some of his energy, yes.

Correction NO! If the correction is just a verbal one you should first make sure the word "no" or whatsoever has a meaning for the dog. This has to be trained in different situations so he really understands what "no" means.

There's a huge difference between correcting a dog for "formal obedience training" and correcting a dog for pack behavior!
A dog does not need to have prior training sessions (learning phase) to be corrected for a specific pack behavior.

This is not a "formal obedience" issue.

About the training collar, here is the collar I'm referring to: http://leerburg.com/746.htm





Moderator note: Please see Bob Scott's post below.

Edited by Connie Sutherland (12/30/2018 11:02 PM)
Edit reason: Mod note added

The Dominant Dog collar is not to be taken lightly. It is NOT for general obedience training and the situation the the OP mentioned DOES NOT warrant a DD.
If it's being used for simple manners or excessive barking it's totally incorrect!

 Quote: Bob Scott

The Dominant Dog collar is not to be taken lightly. It is NOT for general obedience training and the situation the the OP mentioned DOES NOT warrant a DD.
If it's being used for simple manners or excessive barking it's totally incorrect!

Thank you, Bob. You are, of course, absolutely right.

Thanks Connie!

 Quote: Paul Parrel

 Quote: Christina Stockinger

IMHO, I agree only partly with Paul's advices.
A walk to use up some of his energy, yes.

Correction NO! If the correction is just a verbal one you should first make sure the word "no" or whatsoever has a meaning for the dog. This has to be trained in different situations so he really understands what "no" means.

There's a huge difference between correcting a dog for "formal obedience training" and correcting a dog for pack behavior!
A dog does not need to have prior training sessions (learning phase) to be corrected for a specific pack behavior.

This is not a "formal obedience" issue.

You're right, nevertheless whether for formal or informal training, the dog needs to have understood.
And, sorry, I forgot: A car ride is a high level distraction for most dogs. We should consider this too and prepare them gradually for this.

Here's a link to an article that discusses using management tools and/or desensitization techniques. Maybe you've already tried some of these ideas, but they may be worth trying again. Not to mince words, it will be a long, challenging process. Some dogs are very reactive to certain stimuli, in your dog's case, the sight of livestock, and at this point, he's had lots of opportunity to practice the undesirable behavior. Making positive changes will take a lot of time and patience -- and also a helper to drive your car while you deal with your dog.

https://www.dogster.com/lifestyle/ask-the-trainer-how-can-i-stop-my-dog-from-barking-in-the-car

On using the crate, I understand what you are saying, but it may be worth revisiting crate training from the beginning. Is he ever crated in the house? If not, that would be the place to start. Even if he is, remember that dogs are very situational, and a dog that is fine in a crate in the house may need to learn it all over again when you move the crate to a car. First, make sure he is accustomed to being crated quietly in your house in a non-stimulating environment, then move it to the car, but spend many days just letting him be inside it for short periods with the car not going anywhere, then lengthen the time, then try short rides, then gradually lengthen them, and so on. Again, having another person who can drive while you ride closer to where the dog is would be helpful, so you can reward with treats for good behavior.