Has anyone trained the bark and hold without letting the dog get a bite after barking?
I am getting ready to start the bark and hold with my dog and have always seen it done with the dog biting the sleeve in the blind after he barks. I know in a trial he can't bite, so I am not sure why it is commonly taught this way?
Anyone have expereince in other methods of teaching the bark and hold?
Just because you can't reward in a trial, are you going to go back to no rewards on ANY excercises? That would be the only way what you are asking would make sense to me.
The only reason I don't want a bite in the blind is because I see so many handlers struggling to get the dog to stay clean. That is why I was wondering if there is any other methods people have used.
Just trying to avoid the fight to keep him clean later if possible.
Rewards in obedience seem easier to remove than a bite sleeve reward. The dogs are pretty intense when it comes to the sleeve, so it is harder to keep them calm. I can do obediece with or without a reward at this point.
Any stories of how people have trained the bark and hold would be appreciated.
hi kathy,
this is jeff,saw your post.Here's an idea, do the blind search.call the dog out to the heel position n then have the handler once the dog is in the heel position do an escape fron the blind.
We were doing that with izzy has worked so far!!!!
But i'm afraid that izzy n iso with that breeding they may develop the dirty in the blind anyway.Sorry we have'nt been over fell n fractured my knee.A buddy of mine has been working the dogs for me.Hopefully in another 4 wks the doc will let me out with out crutches.
oh but isn't the dog already aware that the bark causes the helper to move in get the bite when were first starting them at bite work?Now should'nt we do the whole exercise before they recieve there reward.I think the dog is more appt to come out of the blind to the heel position quicker without recieving the bite in the blind.
N then considering in trail they never get one in there anyway.Why set up for the mistake.Just my way of thinking we'll see if it works out for me
well... doing what you are describing still doesn't solve the problem of the dog being clean when you send them in to begin with. The dog needs to have a clear understanding of the barking on the pole before sending into the blind.
Not giving a bite in the blind can cause a dog to not come in as close, to look for the handler, to be generally nervous, to recall to the judge when the judge walks up, etc.
What you have mentioned works well for teaching the call out. When the dog is sitting calmly, the helper comes to him/her and gives a bite.
Reward based training works very well with most dogs. Clear training is key. You do this, I will give you that... You have to break each excercise into parts.
You had to learn to count before you could learn to multiply right? Did that mean on a test you had to go back and count? (rhetorical question)
David Morris Webboard User Reg: 11-28-2002
Posts: 570
Loc: North Carolina
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I cant understand why you think you are going to save yourself the problem of keeping the dog clean by not giving the dog a bite after the bark and hold. You will not get your dog to do a believable bark and hold if your dog doesnt believe it.You want the dog intense dont you. You have to train things in steps. After you teach the dog to come in and go into the bark and hold you will then have to teach the dog to stay clean or there is no bite.When the dog learns there is no bite with out staying clean it will learn to stay clean.Im sure you know that, but I think if your dog doesnt think that there will be a bite involved I think you will be losing way to much. Just my opinion but Id rather have my dog actually doin a bark and hold and not just pretending to.
Stop making excuses for your dog and start training it!
If you paint a white line on the ground in front of the helper in the blind when you start teaching the exercise it will help keep him clean down the road. When sending the dog into the blind have him on a fifteen foot line and a prong. Correct him at the line if he steps even on paw over. He will quickly learn where the boundries are and what he needs to do to get the bite. If the dog gets to crowd the helper early on, it could always be a problem keeping him clean specially if the dog doesn't respect the helper (and of course that would be in a trial).
Intensity is not a problem. Jeff owns the sister of my dog and I am sure he knows what I mean. I spend half of my training time capping the dogs drive.
So, if I send him in, he gets a bite, then how do I get him to have a clear understanding later that he he has to do a call out?
Just trying to work on my training plan for the next couple of months and need some things to think about when it comes to blinds. I am trying to think through different senerios to find one that best suits the dog. (high drive.........)
He has a weird idea that he needs to throw himself at the helper to get a bite, he is just starting to figure out the bark part. He is still on a tie out. But as soon as the barking is clear I will start the bark and hold in the blind.
Thanks for all the ideas.
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