So I have a question about how to build focus. When watching the video, I saw Flinks adding distractions to other people's dogs while they were focusing. The dogs would look away for a bit and then return their gaze to the ball. My questions is how should you reinforce the need to focus. Should you pull the ball away, drive the dog again, or wait until the dog returns its focus to the ball. Basically, what do you do when the dog gets distracted from focusing.
Thanks

Jake, the method of returning focus to an object during distraction depends on the maturity of the dog and the drive of the dog.

Immature dogs will lack some degree of focus just because of age, although Bernhard attempts to pick puppies for his type of training that have the ability to focus at an early age.

Really high drive dogs ( read "hectic" ) have trouble concentrating for a long period without getting a reward ( you also see this in tracking - higher drive dogs need rewards sooner and more frequently than level headed or low drive dogs to mantain their focus )

A dog's focus is first tested by time ( how long can the dog focus on an object with becoming distracted ), *then* real distractions are added.
By the time distractions are added, the higher drive dogs are recieving mild compulsion/ corrections if they lose focus to a distraction.

My male GSD ( *very* high drive dog ) did heeling through groups of other dogs with Bernhard bouncing a ball on the buggy whip a few feet from us ( the mean bast*rd! <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/laugh.gif" alt="" /> ). My dog recieved a low nick on his E collar each time he looked away. Within 5 mins., he was heeling with 100% focus to me - amazing given his suspicious nature ( he's always scanning for a fight, focus on me is alway a challenge for him )

That's how I've seen Bernhard Flinks do it through six seminars now. Other folks may have a different way of training it.

So that brings up another question. When doing your selection testing, what do you prefer? Either I "hectic" dog or a dog that has a little less drive but more focus. I would guess that there are advantages and disadvantages for both, but I was just wondering what they are. Thanks for the replies.

Jake

I'm trying to work on focus with my dog, and right now I'm just trying to teach her to look at me while in the house. We haven't graduated to outside yet. I've been using a clicker and little pieces of pot roast, but I still don't think she quite understands that the click=treat, and we've been working for about a week now.

She is at the point now where she will just sit and look at me while I'm sitting on the couch, but I don't think I am supposed to just click and treat and click and treat just for this, am I? I've never used a clicker for any of her training, so I'm open to ANY suggestions. The main reason for wanting to teach her to focus on me is because she focuses too hard on other dogs when we go for walks, and works herself into a frenzy because she can't get to them. She is dominant towards other dogs, but not actually aggressive; she just wants to go and play with them, but because she can't her hackles go up and she begins snarling and growling at the other dog. I want her to automatically look up at me when she sees another dog - like a knee jerk reaction - until it is out of sight.

I stumbled at article few days ago (can't find link my bookmarks are mess) in which is described method that i am using now;

basicly you vind up dog with a toy, or call him in front sit, than hide hands behind your back and stop all movement. Dog will look where is toy and sooner or later will look you in the eyes (maybe some patience needed, as with my mutt <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" /> ), at that moment first mark that (click, 'yes' or whatever) and than produce toy. In time require longer focus on you before rewarding, add distractions (arm movement, producing ball, droping ball) and in the end practice focus while moving.

I started it and it is going well, also i started to trow in signal for focus.

Jake - there are many ways to train focus. I believe you are asking about my drive and focus video.

Will's post was good. But for young dogs that you dont want to correct the focus has two issues:

1- Loosing focus when the ball is high - because the dog was not in high enough drive - in this case the dog is put back into drive without rewarding with the ball.

2- If the dog is sitting in front and focusing but looks away when someon comes up behind. Be aware of EXACTLY where the person is when the dog looks away (mark the spot if you have to) Then drop the ball just as the person reaches that spot - just before the dog looks it should be rewarded.

This all assumes you have a dog that can be put in drive.

Maybye I need to add this point better when and if I re-do the tape.

Ivan brought up an excellent exercise - having the dog make eye contact with you before it gets it's reward. When I let my dogs out of the house, they have to sit calmly and make eye contact with me for at least 1 1/2 seconds before I open the door. With high drive dogs, that works out to be a great exercise that can be done several times a day ( hey...you're letting them out anyway, might as well mix some training into it <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif" alt="" /> ) For my Mal puppy out of Cindy's bich, that time is an eternity - it took a long time for him to learn to stop spinning and look up at me. You need to have your timimg down to a "T" to make this work, though.

Kristen....."pot roast"? <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/laugh.gif" alt="" />
What....your dog won't work for caviar? <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif" alt="" />

Jake, both a level headed or "high drive"/ hectic dog have both advantages and disadvantages, according mainly to your handling skills and training style.
I prefer the higher drive dogs, as I don't need to spend much time "loading" my dogs - they come out to the field and are in drive instantly. Make's living with them a pain, though - the drive is still present in your house, where your loved ones and other pets make not be as thrilled with high drive dogs.

Bernhard has said that a dog needs to have at least a level "5" for drive to be trained to enjoy and succeed in SchH.

Hopes that clears things up for you.

Will Rambeau
Proud but tired owner of level "9" drive dogs.... <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/laugh.gif" alt="" />

Remember what experienced folks would warn new parents desparate for their kids to start talking? "Be careful what you wish for..."

I live with my dogs 24/7 (retired...)
And all that focus training I see now can have it's down side too: a dog that comes and stares at me when she wants something, and doesn't give up until she gets it! <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/laugh.gif" alt="" />
Hungry? Go stare at the boss...
Need to go outside? Go stare at the boss...
Ball rolled under the couch? Go stare at the boss...
The other dog got the bone? Go stare at the boss..
Bored? Go stare at the boss...

ARRGH! I've taken to locking myself in the bathroom for privacy!
(yeah, yeah, I know.... Like my spouse advises: "Just say No!")

Kristen, when you first introduce the clicker to the dog you do just click and treat. First you have to teach the dog that click means that a goodie is coming. So to do that you have the dog sit in front of you and click and treat, click and treat, click and treat, until you see the lightbulb go on in the dog's head that click means good stuff is headed his way. When you see the dog start to look for the treat after you click then you can start to use the clicker to shape a behavior.

There's an entire forum here at Leerburg devoted to clicker training - ya'll may want to continue that part of the discussion over there.

Bernhard is not an advocate of clicker trainer, for your information. <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif" alt="" />