Re: bathing pups??? Chicken feet??? Beef Tripe???
[Re: Sandy Moore ]
#127085 - 01/31/2007 11:13 AM |
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i use an oatmeal and baking soda shampoo that is very gentle on the skin. it's formulated for dogs. it's fine to bathe a puppy. make sure the water is not too hot or cold, and keep the puppy warm until it is dry.
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Re: bathing pups??? Chicken feet??? Beef Tripe???
[Re: alice oliver ]
#127088 - 01/31/2007 11:31 AM |
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Also, get your dog used to a dryer... Use a hand dryer on the cool setting. Expect him to freak, but don't let him escape, and just dry him. Don't accept problems. Eventually he'll lay still to be dried, but if you DON'T then that can sometimes contribute to fungus and that horrid doggy smell even bathed dogs sometimes have.
I just know that a breeder friend of mine said it was incredibly important to dry even short-coated breeds because of the "fungus factor"
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Re: bathing pups??? Chicken feet??? Beef Tripe???
[Re: Jennifer Ruzsa ]
#127100 - 01/31/2007 12:17 PM |
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You are right ,all the research and books on allergies I have read would mention to fully dry your dog to avoid skin infections.The one thing we sometimes forget is the conditioner, we do not condition our dogs when we bath them, I cannot tell you how many times in my research (for allergies) they mention to use a conditioner.I always rinse with water and use a conditioner I have found at "Whole Foods" it has no chemicals , it is pretty much a Mudd Mix, all natural raw products in it.I had bought it to give my hair a mudd treatment and when I rinsed it, it felt like silk.It had no smell and looks like Mudd,I don't have any now, I used it over the summer to rinse off the excess of chlorine on me and the dogs
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Re: bathing pups??? Chicken feet??? Beef Tripe???
[Re: Angelique Cadogan ]
#127102 - 01/31/2007 12:31 PM |
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What benefits are there to feeding Green Tripe? I see it offered at my petstore and was wondering exactly what it offers. And is it ok to mix it in kibble?
Sorry, not to highjack the thread, but just wondering,
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Re: bathing pups??? Chicken feet??? Beef Tripe???
[Re: Wendy Lefebvre ]
#127103 - 01/31/2007 12:35 PM |
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Wendy, is it raw or canned, either way do not mix it with Kibble, feed it seperatly, and maybe do the tripe in the morning and kibble in the evening (visa versa).
Here is a website you can read all the benefits of tripe:
http://www.greentripe.com/
Great stuff!
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Re: bathing pups??? Chicken feet??? Beef Tripe???
[Re: Angelique Cadogan ]
#127104 - 01/31/2007 12:38 PM |
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Wendy, is it raw or canned, either way do not mix it with Kibble, feed it seperatly, and maybe do the tripe in the morning and kibble in the evening (visa versa).
Here is a website you can read all the benefits of tripe:
http://www.greentripe.com/
Great stuff!
Thanks Angelique,
I kind of thought i shoudln't mix it with kibble, thanks for the link!!!
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Re: bathing pups??? Chicken feet??? Beef Tripe???
[Re: RobbinMann ]
#127118 - 01/31/2007 02:35 PM |
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I bathe both my dogs with the lavendar smelling baby wash, not shampoo. The great smell lasts a long time and I've never had a problem with it. I only bathe the about every 6-8 weeks. I have a lab/chow mix and a rottweiler. My sister has Shitzu's and they have all kinds of skin problems/allergies. I told her about it and she tried it on her pups and told me that is the only thing that has not caused them problems. My friend uses dog shampoo and then uses a human coconut conditioner on her lab, she gets a bath sometimes more that twice a week. She said the lab used to get dry skin...but hasn't since she used the coconut conditioner.
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Re: bathing pups??? Chicken feet??? Beef Tripe???
[Re: Angelique Cadogan ]
#127119 - 01/31/2007 02:39 PM |
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Re: bathing pups??? Chicken feet??? Beef Tripe???
[Re: ConsueloCoyle ]
#127120 - 01/31/2007 02:47 PM |
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Guest1 wrote 01/31/2007 03:27 PM
Re: bathing pups??? Chicken feet??? Beef Tripe???
[Re: Jennifer Ruzsa ]
#127131 - 01/31/2007 03:27 PM |
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You know, it's not terribly difficult to make your own soap. I do. It's far superior and highly customizable.
In fact, first five PMs get a free sample.
Cold Process Soapmakers have it down to a litany. When asked why their soap is better than store-bought, they say (among other things), "Because of the natural glycerin. Glycerin is a humectant, meaning it attracts moisture to your skin. Glycerin is a natural by-product of the soapmaking process and while commercial manufacturers remove the glycerin for use in their more profitable lotions and creams, handcrafted soap retains glycerin in each and every bar.
Glycerin is a neutral, sweet-tasting, colorless, thick liquid which freezes to a gummy paste and which has a high boiling point. Glycerin can be dissolved into water or alcohol, but not oils. On the other hand, many things will dissolve into glycerin easier than they do into water or alcohol. So it is a good solvent.
Glycerin is also highly "hygroscopic" which means that it absorbs water from the air. Example: if you left a bottle of pure glycerin exposed to air in your kitchen, it would take moisture from the air and eventually, it would become 80 per glycerin and 20 percent water.
Because of this hygroscopic quality, pure, 100 percent glycerin placed on the tongue may raise a blister, since it is dehydrating. Diluted with water, however, it will soften your skin. (Note: While people say this softening is the result of the glycerin attracting moisture to your skin, there is heated debate as to whether or not the glycerin has some other properties all its own which are helpful to the skin. Summed up, the current thinking is "We know glycerin softens the skin. Some people think its because it attracts moisture, but there could be other reasons.")
Where does glycerin come from?
Up until 1889, people didn't know how to recover glycerine from the soapmaking process, so commercially produced glycerin mostly came from the candlemaking industry (remember, back then candles were made from animal fats).
In 1889, a viable way to separate the glycerin out of the soap was finally implemented. Since the number one use of glycerin was to make nitroglycerin, which was used to make dynamite, making soap suddenly became a lot more profitable! I have an untested theory that you could trace the roots of most big soapmakers (and the "fall" of the small, local soapmaker) to about this time in history.
The process of removing the glycerin from the soap is fairly complicated (and of course, there are a lot of variations on the theme). In the most simplest terms: you make soap out of fats and lye. The fats already contain glycerin as part of their chemical makeup (both animal and vegetable fats contain from 7% - 13% glycerine). When the fats and lye interact, soap is formed, and the glycerin is left out as a "byproduct". But, while it's chemically separate, it's still blended into the soap mix.
While a cold process soapmaker would simply pour into the molds at this stage, a commercial soapmaker will add salt. The salt causes the soap to curdle and float to the top. After skimming off the soap, they are left with glycerin (and lots of "impurities" like partially dissolved soap, extra salt, etc.). They then separate the glycerin out by distilling it. Finally, they de-colorize the glycerin by filtering it through charcoal, or by using some other bleaching method.
Glycerin is also used to make clear soaps. Highly glycerinated clear soaps contain about 15% - 20% pure glycerin. Known as "Melt and Pour" soaps, these soaps are very easy for the hobbyist to work with. They melt at about 160 degrees fahrenheit, and solidify fairly rapidly. Because of their high glycerin content, the soaps are very moisturizing to the skin. Unfortunately, this high glycerin content also means that the soaps will dissolve more rapidly in water than soaps with less glycerin, and that if the bar of soap is left exposed to air, it will attract moisture and "glisten" with beads of ambient moisture.
These downsides, however are more than compensated by the emollient, skin loving and gentle nature of this soap which is especially good for tender skin and children.
(1) The pure chemical product is called Glycerol (which shows that it is an alcohol), while the impure commercial product is called Glycerin. This is a technical complexity, so for this article, I'm sticking to the more familiar term, Glycerin.
© Copyright, 1997, Kaila Westerman
Reprinted with permission
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