Hold off on the hidden sleeve. It is more for finishing a dog, not starting one.

Like Carol mentioned, soft sleeves can allow bruises, and the hidden sleeve is even less protection than an intermediate soft sleeve sometimes.

We keep cross posting!

The answer is yes and no. My arm does fit, and I can (and do) use it that way, but it is meant to be used with two hands on the handles. You can also clip a leash to it and swing it around.

It is to teach the dog to target a little better than a large tug does. And it teaches the dog to bite that "shape."

What I often do to teach a young dog is to play with it like a tug, with two hands, then while playing, slip my arm in and tug like this to get the dog used to "biting the arm," fight a little more, and then slip it to let the dog win.

Thanks for the answer, now I know what to do with this bar and when to start using it. It sounds to me like it is a useful piece of equipment. I would be hesitant however in clipping the leash to it and swinging it around (seems heavy and dangerous, love for my dog is too great), although this practice would could in handy with an encounter with a burglar (or irritating husband). Seems the possibilities with the Leerburg equipment are endless..

 Quote: Rosalinda van den Ham

Thanks for the answer, now I know what to do with this bar and when to start using it. It sounds to me like it is a useful piece of equipment...

Seems the possibilities with the Leerburg equipment are endless..

Oh absolutely! And the quality is superb. You can buy stuff from other vendors and retailers, but you can’t beat the quality here. This specific piece of equipment is very useful and easy to handle for both you and the dog.

 Quote: Rosalinda van den Ham

I would be hesitant however in clipping the leash to it and swinging it around (seems heavy and dangerous, love for my dog is too great), although this practice would could in handy with an encounter with a burglar (or irritating husband).

Swinging it is a more advanced training technique. It is typically used on a dog that is back tied, and so you have to swing it to where it is either just out of the dogs reach (to build frustration and drive, much like the ball on the string) or just within reach (remember the dog is restrained, so you can judge the distance with out endangering the dog).

This builds the drive to take the bite, and allows for a more dynamic strike; more dedication and urgency. Keeping it out of reach a time or two (depends on the dog) is important and sets the tone for the exercise. This is also done with a tug. If you don’t want to use a leash/rope, you don’t have to. You can just hold it. But you will get much more swing and movement with a leash/rope. This builds more drive. (Refer to the BDFG DVD where with low drive dogs, Bernhard attaches the tug to a lunge whip to add more movement to build more drive.)

As I understand it, you are doing much of this on your own, but if you have a helper, he/she can be holding the dog back instead of tying the dog up or you can do the holding while the helper does the agitating. Whith holding instead of tying, after the dog gets a good bite, you can run a bit with the dog as a reward. Make sure the person who does the holding or swinging understands the exercise and is strong enough and mature enough to be able to do either safely.

But if an irritating husband gets in the way…..