i doubt this is it, just brainstorming....

what is his prey drive like? he goes nuts at bicycles, and the man was jogging? both things that in my experience can trigger prey drive or interest. has he reacted to slow-moving people? maybe certain environments could be 'non-prey' (like how some dogs are fine with cats indoors, but will go after them outdoors), and some are 'prey'?

that probably wouldn't explain his level of reaction, but just throwing it out.

You may never know the 'why'. I've seen shelter dogs behave this way, and I've seen a dog I raised from puppyhood grow up and suddenly behave this way, and I've raised a few puppies . No explanation. Someone else have any? I would stay away from corrections right now though, at least in the circumstances you've described, but I would keep using the prong collar so that you are able to physically hang on to Kodee.

If you think that moving a couple of feet off the path is enough proximity-wise, then it might be, though it still sounds pretty close. I like the idea of feeding something high-value when approached by something provocative; it would change the association to a positive one.

A word of warning though: I haven't seen Kodee's behavior so I don't know how out of control he gets. I know for my dog, there was no food or toy in the world that was able to distract him from this behavior once he wound up. It took a lot of time and repetition, to the point that it became habit, for me to hold his attention in a previously reactive circumstance. Only then would he even be interested in food or toys.

You'll know you are too close if he won't eat and you can't hold his attention.

 Quote: Kristel Smart

... If you think that moving a couple of feet off the path is enough proximity-wise, then it might be, though it still sounds pretty close. I like the idea of feeding something high-value when approached by something provocative; it would change the association to a positive one.

Ditto about the distance: The idea for me is to work with the dog outside the edge of the reaction/influence circle, only ever-so-gradually moving in. A couple of feet isn't what I meant, although if it's sufficient, then, of course, for this dog, it IS outside that circle.

I think the release is another important part to remember. It helps quite a bit for the dog to clearly know when something is finished.

I will definitely go with Kristel's advice and take him to parking lots at petstores, the park, etc, and work on desensitizing him from a distance first. I realize that the "couple of feet off the trail" was a bad idea, but I posted it before I saw Kristel's post. :0

I don't think it's prey drive - one time we were on a narrow bridge walking, and a couple came towards us, and the woman was walking with her bicycle, and he still went nuts. The "targets" aren't always moving quickly, but that's how it started. The first time he ever acted aggressively was when strange men would come towards us from the front, either riding a bike or jogging. Men only at first. Now it's generalized. It went from dogs to bikes/joggers (men) to bikes/joggers (women) to anybody who is coming towards us from the front or back, even if it's slow. This is only when we're on the trails in fairly isolated areas. He does have high prey drive - chasing a ball or frisbee is one of his rewards during OB training, as it's such a high incentive for him. He's shown high prey drive since he was a very small pup, and I use it to my advantage during training sessions. Cuts way down on the treats .

He does have a release command ("Ok"), and he knows it well. I use it during downs, sits, etc. He's trained to "stop" (stop where he's at and sit immediately) at intersections on walks. He sits til he's released. How would I incorporate this into desensitizing him to (fill in the blank)?

Thank you all for your help! I really need it!

 Quote: kori bigge

... He does have a release command ("Ok"), and he knows it well. I use it during downs, sits, etc. He's trained to "stop" (stop where he's at and sit immediately) at intersections on walks. He sits til he's released. How would I incorporate this into desensitizing him to (fill in the blank)? ..

I was just mentioning the release to change walks from pulling-to-sniff to marching along, handler in charge, until dog is released to sniff all he wants.

But as Steve says, I use a release for anything that the dog has been asked to do when it's over, unless it's ended with my marker and reward. (Marker means the command was completed, of course.)

(And the release keeps the action under the handler's control while giving the dog a pleasurable expectation on the walk.)

 Quote: Khoi Pham

If this dog is ready to bite a man, then he is at the point that his mind is way out of control, you have to snap him out of that mental state, the way to snap him out of that state is a hard correction

This is a good way for any inexperienced handler to get bitten. Especially if the dog is reactive. And it does nothing to gain the dog's trust.

With my reactive dog, a hard correction while he was exploding made him think I was attacking him and he would defend himself. She has already said her dog bit her in his confusion.

You can see examples of this in Ed's Dominant Dogs DVD.

Angela - I agree. I appreciate Khoi's advice, but I just don't think it'll work in this case. When I mentioned that I gave Kodee 2 hard corrections with the prong while he was totally worked up, I wasn't kidding. I jerked that prong HARD. Twice. He didn't even notice. I think I actually lifted his front feet off the ground slightly (didn't know my own strength in my rush to keep him from biting the guy). Although it didn't seem to escalate him (like I said, he was about as escalated as I think he could get), it sure as heck didn't "snap him out of it", either. Too many yanks like the ones I gave him, and he'd be injured, maybe not just physically. Not to mention I'm sure it's not good for our bond, either.

I will try the advice from Kristel, and back up in our training to work with him at a distance. Kodee is just an incredible dog, and I want to work with him in as positive a manner as I can. Thanks for all the advice! (Keep it comin'! )

Just a note too, her dog bitting her might have been what they call re-directed aggression. Dog cant get to the dog/person/etc that hes barking at so he redirects to the next closest thing - I've seen my dogs do that to each other when they were barking at someone thru the fence and one of my dogs did it to me when I was correcting with a prong when he was in drive and doing something I didnt like- not fun getting bit. I;ve changed my ways since then and think the positive methods are the way to go