Re: Control: Dog Whisperer style.
[Re: Rob Abel ]
#290168 - 08/05/2010 10:19 AM |
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A lot of the "magic" is just experience, and a feel for dogs. Coupled with the "stranger factor", the dog doesn't know you and therefore doesn't have a built in relationship, which with many pets includes a lack of respect. When approached with a confident authoritative attitude from a stranger, many dogs get a "yes sir/mam" attitude going.
When I did obedience lessons, many years ago LOL, I could take the clients dog and have it heeling, down, sit, stay, etc no problem. Hand the leash back to the client, and they couldn't even get a sit from the dog. Some of this was the relationship, but some of it was also simply a lack of experience on the part of the client. "two left feet" when heeling, lack of timing on commands, rewards and corrections, etc.
This is also the reason many vets prefer to take dogs into the back without the owner. Fluffy is a PITA with their owner there, but suddenly a docile little thing without the owner. Sometimes LOL
Lauren, for your dog have you tried mental work instead of physical work to wear it out. All the physical stuff does is build stamina, so instead of getting tired after 3 hours, it takes 4, then 5, then ... Physical games like searching, or tricks, etc can wear a dog out just as well as a hike or game of fetch.
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Re: Control: Dog Whisperer style.
[Re: Kadi_Thingvall ]
#290240 - 08/05/2010 02:12 PM |
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MY DOGS...MY RULES
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Re: Control: Dog Whisperer style.
[Re: Kadi_Thingvall ]
#290241 - 08/05/2010 02:19 PM |
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All the physical stuff does is build stamina, so instead of getting tired after 3 hours, it takes 4, then 5, then ... Physical games like searching, or tricks, etc can wear a dog out just as well as a hike or game of fetch.
That's a great point and certainly fits my situation. Our guy is buff and in great shape. It means he recovers faster and can go longer on a walk or run. Of course, there is always the hip/elbow pounding to consider with too much roadwork.
Methinks it's time for me to add some more 'games' to the mix.
A dog has alot of friends because he wags his tail instead of his mouth.
- Charlie Daniels |
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Re: Control: Dog Whisperer style.
[Re: Kadi_Thingvall ]
#290251 - 08/05/2010 03:10 PM |
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Physical games like searching, or tricks, etc can wear a dog out just as well as a hike or game of fetch.
I also meant, mental games, not physical games LOL Things that require more from the dog mentally then physically.
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Re: Control: Dog Whisperer style.
[Re: Kadi_Thingvall ]
#290255 - 08/05/2010 03:13 PM |
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Physical games like searching, or tricks, etc can wear a dog out just as well as a hike or game of fetch.
I also meant, mental games, not physical games LOL Things that require more from the dog mentally then physically.
I figured you did.
Could you/would you describe a few of the games/mental activities that you use with your dogs, Kadi? Anything that works for a kennel of Mals has to work for lots of other active dogs.
A dog has alot of friends because he wags his tail instead of his mouth.
- Charlie Daniels |
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Re: Control: Dog Whisperer style.
[Re: Kadi_Thingvall ]
#290258 - 08/05/2010 03:17 PM |
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Physical games like searching, or tricks, etc can wear a dog out just as well as a hike or game of fetch.
I also meant, mental games, not physical games LOL Things that require more from the dog mentally then physically.
Kadi, this is a topic I hope you will expand on, because right now we have several members with dogs temporarily under physical-exercise lockdown, and the more mental games, tricks, and the like we can come up with, the better.
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Re: Control: Dog Whisperer style.
[Re: Connie Sutherland ]
#290273 - 08/05/2010 04:02 PM |
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Some of this stuff may work for dogs on "lock down", some won't, depends on why the dog isn't supposed to be exercising. When one of my dogs is being crated for extended periods, I do a variety of things. When crated, they are a room on their own, nice and quiet, lights are off, TV or radio down low to dull any background noise from the rest of the house. And I give lots of frozen knuckle bones, treats in a kong, etc. They don't get any meals in a normal fashion, all meals are turned into something that is going to take them some time. Even if it's just soaking their kibble in water, then stuffing it into kongs, and freezing it. As much as possible though they aren't crated, but are on a down/stay on a large dog bed in whatever room I'm in, so they can be part of the household. If they aren't good about the down/stay, then I will tie them, either to a bed post, or large cinder block, whatever. Or I'll dig out my "down/stay board" which is a 4x4 piece of plywood, covered in carpet, with a clip bolted in the middle of it. Hook that to a short line to the dog, and they can't walk away but can move around a little, change sides they are laying on, etc. If the dog can have some exercise, just nothing that involves impact, I will do a lot of swimming.
For games I do a variety of things.
First is just teaching skills. Some useable, some stupid pet tricks. The more detailed, the more the dog has to think, the better. Even basic skills such as a retrieve can be expanded on. Teach the dog to retrieve items by name, or retrieve harder items like food. Teach them to sit up and beg, it's a great way to strengthen their lower back, and also see if they are "ouchie". Same for a play bow and going from the beg to standing on their hind legs. I also have them follow a lure while sitting and standing, having them turn their head as far to the left and right as they can. Know how far they normally can turn, and you'll know when they are sore in the neck/shoulders because they won't turn. I teach my dogs to roll onto their side on command, and use it for doing nails, checking their feet, etc. Scent discrimination is a good one, since any sort of scent work really seems to wear them out. There are some good books of tricks to teach that have long lists of them. Once the dog knows a bunch of commands, just running through the commands can help wear them down mentally. I make it a game, and "shotgun" commands at them, or shotgun 2-3 then make then hold one for 5 seconds, then shotgun a few more, then hold one, etc Keep them guessing what is coming next.
I also do a lot of searching with my dogs. Indoors or out, I will put them in a down/stay, take an item, and go hide it. When we first start I hide it in the room they are doing the stay in, but later once they get the game I will hide it anywhere in the house or outside. I start with something like a tennis ball that is self rewarding to them, but later I will hide other items. First I will show them what it is, then I hide it, so they have to remember what they are looking for, and not just look for a ball. Might be a potpourri bag, a stuffed animal, a plastic bottle, a little plastic car, etc. Or I will just hide dog biscuits around the room. I've been known on many occasions to just take a handful of dog biscuits or kibble outside and just fling it into the yard. While they are searching, when it looks like there isn't much left, I'll fling another handful out there. If the food is occasionally refreshed, then even when it gets sparse the dog will think if they just look hard enough, they will find more, which will increase their search duration and intensity. Try picking a flower, and smelling it for 2-3 minutes straight. Gives you an idea of how physically difficult scent work can be, even though it doesn't appear to be.
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Re: Control: Dog Whisperer style.
[Re: Kadi_Thingvall ]
#290291 - 08/05/2010 04:54 PM |
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Very nice, Kadi - thank you. I'm starting a new file - can never have too many rainy day (or in my case 113 degree day) activities!
A dog has alot of friends because he wags his tail instead of his mouth.
- Charlie Daniels |
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Re: Control: Dog Whisperer style.
[Re: Kadi_Thingvall ]
#290330 - 08/05/2010 06:16 PM |
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Bookmark!
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Re: Control: Dog Whisperer style.
[Re: Connie Sutherland ]
#290364 - 08/05/2010 07:31 PM |
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Bookmark!
definitely!
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