Thank you all, sounds like some really good advice.

@ Connie, so I understand correctly;

Remove the kibble and supplements but keep the Vitamin E and Salmon Oil? I don't want to be vague on any of this so I DO need it spelled out for me. This way I can be sure there is no oversight! Does this mean more chicken back or turkey neck for lunch and dinner?

@ Melissa and Tracy:

His current foot alignment may just be a puppy thing he'll mature out of? Does not necessarily indicate a problem at 5 mo.? He does not seem in pain when he gets up but he does get up slowly (hardwood floors). We've been careful to not allow him too much rough movement to include carrying him up and down our staircase until he was around 50-60 pounds.

I have a message in to the breeder about his parents and grandparents and am waiting for a response. I don't think they are displastic but my vet told me to start with him about the feet.

Connie is the expert and she'll have lots of advice (which you can take to the bank.)

But if you are interested in removing the kibble from his diet entirely and going to an all-raw diet (which I think is a great idea)--then spend some time here in the raw-feeding forum and read. You'll find lots of great advice already written out, but please feel free to ask as many questions as you need to feel comfortable.

Yes, you'll obviously need to replace the kibble with more raw food if you go that route. It will be a mix of raw meaty bones (like the chicken and turkey parts you're feeding) as well as boneless meat (like the ground beef), as well as a small amount of organ meat.

The amount to feed in a raw diet is generally in the ballpark of 2% of the dog's ideal adult weight in food per day. 100 pound dog = 2 pounds of food a day. 150 pound dog = 3 pounds of food a day. (remember this is based on the adult weight of the dog, not current puppy weight. puppies need more food as a percentage of body weight than adults.)

Adjust this amount up or down based on the dog's metabolism and activity level. Every dog's a bit different and you just have to monitor his weight with your hands on him. But 2% is an amount that will get you in the right neighborhood on the amount.

yes--continue the fish oil and vitamin e. IMO, those are the only "supplements" you need.

Read up, watch for Connie's advice, and we're here to help.

eta: can't hurt to ask the breeder about the wonky feet. It could very well be typical of how this breed grows--I don't know. but I do know that most puppies look like they are put together wrong for several months while they are going through growth spurts!

Where are you at in MI? I am in the SE region and belong to a great co-op for raw food. If you are in the area I would be happy to share the info so it is easier for you to find good sources and phase out the kibble.

I'm in Milan! I buy from Knights market in A2 and get backs for about 50 cents per pound (40 pounds) and Turkey necks for around $1 per pound (30 pounds). I bought 10 pounds of chicken liver but forget the price. I get 10 lb tubes of ground beef and order 8 tubes at a time. We found that we were throwing away ziploc bags, sometimes 3 a day (3 dogs going through allot of food) so we have switched to glad storage. It's expensive at first but they wash allot easier than a bag does. Where are you?

Nice thing about the beef tubes, I cut patties while still in the tube and they hold shape very well. Works perfect when I want to grill burgers! Great for consistent portioning as well.

was considering continuing the synflex, or some other gluc as well.

 Quote: eric dziedzic

@ Connie, so I understand correctly;

Remove the kibble and supplements but keep the Vitamin E and Salmon Oil? I don't want to be vague on any of this so I DO need it spelled out for me. This way I can be sure there is no oversight! Does this mean more chicken back or turkey neck for lunch and dinner?

Tracy has answered this perfectly, so it's covered. You are basically starting over with a raw diet. Don't leave out that produce you have (the glop).

I just wanted to add what I was too rushed to say earlier: If you had consulted me about this diet, my number one recommendation would have been to lose that crap commercial food, even if you decided to stick with kibble.

Here are the first few ingredients: Chicken, brewers rice, corn gluten meal, poultry by-product meal, whole grain wheat. Of those ingredients, one is acceptable (IMO): the chicken. The rest is crap in a bag, including grain fractions (food and liquor industry byproducts that have been sitting in a warehouse waiting for a buyer to use it as filler and get rid of it), poultry BY-PRODUCT, and WHEAT. (The next ingredient, BTW, is corn. Also included are unnamed animal fat and unnamed animal "digest.") The only thing saving this food from being at the very bottom of a long list of kibbles is that corn is not the first ingredient. (This company does make one in which it is, called "Beneful." ) As far as I know, Purina does not make a single acceptable dog food. JMHO!

So you will take a big step in the right direction just by dumping that food.

I don't know how big your chicken livers are, but you want to aim for 5% (or up to 10%) of the diet being organ meat. If this means an increase, it's better to do it gradually (organ meat being a common diarrhea trigger).

Tracy is right about getting rid of that calcium supplement. I know we said this, but it really can't be said too often: calcium and phosphorus need to be provided in a specific ratio. RMBs do that (ain't nature great?) and commercial foods do it via supplementation. A balanced diet (raw commercial) does not need calcium added. (But boneless homemade, raw or cooked, DOES.)

Good luck! Keep asking questions! Your dog is growing every day at this age, and his diet is very important; it will go into the formation of the skeleton and organs and teeth that he will have for his lifetime.

 Quote: eric dziedzic

was considering continuing the synflex, or some other gluc as well.

http://leerburg.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Board=134&Number=314420&Searchpage=1&Main=28875&Words=GAGs&topic=0&Search=true#Post314476

 Quote: eric dziedzic

His current foot alignment may just be a puppy thing he'll mature out of? Does not necessarily indicate a problem at 5 mo.? He does not seem in pain when he gets up but he does get up slowly (hardwood floors). We've been careful to not allow him too much rough movement to include carrying him up and down our staircase until he was around 50-60 pounds.

My usual type selection for my breed which is a small breed happens between 8-10 weeks. Then I don't really worry about which way feet point, how tall, angles, anything until they are 6-8 months old when I pay attention to proportions and then again not worry about it until 18 months -2 years old when my concern becomes balance and the overall picture. With a large heavy breed like a cane I wouldn't bother worrying about much as far as what pointed what direction until much later unless your pup goes lame.

Dogs just don't grow evenly and your pup still has a lot of growing to do in all directions.

Thanks all, I think we're off to a good start (raw diet startup is the hard part). Dropping the Vitamin C, Alfalfa and kelp powder, kibble and tums. My vet said Glucosamine might help but won't hurt, not sure what we'll do there. You have been quite helpful.