I don't have the expertise many on this board have, but I am pleased with the neutrality my dog has developed. Aside from his temperament, I attribute this to:

1. In the beginning, I would offer him a high value treat (bits of steak) as we passed other dogs, so he would focus on me and his reward. I would hold the treat in front of his nose and lure him past the dogs, then reward him.

2. I walk him A LOT. He has had a lot of practice and desensitizing. I ALWAYS error on the side of caution. If we are approaching a dog or person I am not confident with, we cross the street, we change direction, whatever it takes. I always put myself between my dog and another dog. Even when we pass a yard with a dog behind a fence, I walk next to the fence; I put myself between them. I am confident in my dog, but I do all I can to make him feel safe and protect him from other's carelessness.

We live in a densely populated neighborhood. It is not unusual to pass 10 dogs on a walk. Fortunately, most are on leash. Like Peggy, I have had to step in front of my dog, lunge and yell at off leash dogs, aggressively approaching. Now, it is comical to see my big lug take cover behind me.

If you live in an area with out-of-control dogs, by all means, follow Ed's advice, carry pepper spray or a big stick. Don't allow YOUR dog to be damaged.

After re-reading the above, I think I sound aggressive. I want to clarify, my dog and I walk with a calm and positive attitude.

Thanks Nancy,

I think it's time to use some steak. I've gotten by on Zuke's Z filets etc. But for this I think I'll need really high value. I always walk with a length of pipe and pepper spray.

I don't think you sound aggressive. We are just protecting our dogs.

He's a good looking boy your shepherd!!

Hi Connie,

 Quote: Connie Sutherland

Here's a start, and if you will bump this tomorrow morning, I'll find more.

http://leerburg.com/webboard/thread.php?topic_id=28694&page=3#312536

http://leerburg.com/webboard/thread.php?topic_id=24232&page=2#251710

Please ask any and all questions you may have after reading a bit.

I have a link somewhere to "dog-reactive success stories," too, that I'll find tomorrow.

Whew, I guess I'm not the only one who views this with concern!! Thank you so much for the wonderful threads. I definitely need higher value treats as well as a little more patience!

Besides HV rewards, I want to re-emphasize working outside the dog's reactive zone. The bulk of the work is done where the dog is able to focus on you and the ob session (and rewards). I calmly turn around or cross the street when I see a trigger up ahead, rather than reinforce my dog's reactivity when we are starting this work.

I want all of my dog's exposure to his triggers right now to be outside his reactive zone, so a new behavior can be learned and practiced (the one where my dog is focused on me, and the triggers are nothing but "background").

I know this is not always possible, but it's always my goal when I'm starting this desensitizing work.

My goal is bullet-proof ob .... and ob work always starts with no distraction. Think of the dog's triggers as the highest level of distraction, the kind that is introduced in small manageable gradual doses.

When I'm in the first stages of this work, I plan everything. I strategize. I might modify the times of day of the walks and definitely the routes.

I don't make nervous or flustered route-changes, of course, and when we must pass a trigger within my dog's reactive range, we march right past, calmly and briskly and with no pauses for stink-eye.

My dog doesn't get the chance to focus, stare, and fixate.

" I definitely need higher value treats as well as a little more patience!"

Patience, yes, but again, this is really ob work, focus work, engagement, with management of your dog's biggest distraction. When you view it this way, you see that all the strategizing and patience are not only in service of his reactivity --- they are training protocol in service of beautiful, reliable, focused, ob training.

A quick sideline into the rewards: I do use darned good stuff in the sessions with a reactive dog, and I also use a mixed bag (slot machine effect). Bob Scott taught me this, and he is so right. First, the scent of the extra-good stuff gets on the medium stuff, and second, there's a great eagerness triggered in the dog to see what's coming next.

Also, later on, when we have made the reactive range smaller, then the bigger the distraction my dog ignores successfully, the grander the reward.

There is no downside to well-done desensitizing, in my book. The results are forever, and they include a strengthened bond, the dog's perception of you as his leader and decider of reactions, better and better ob, and more.

JMO!

Those are some great posts there Connie

Thank you Connie,

Wonderful info!

Because Ramsey is a real youngster, I do plan a route..BUT still there are always others. I do try to keep moving calmly by other dogs being walked, but nothing is calm to a 31/2 old puppy!! So I walk quickly and try to playfully steer/pull him. It's not ideal. but it's the best I can come up with. When we get past, and he is behaving better, I praise him and continue the OB.

This morning I made the mistake of feeding him before the walk. NEVER AGAIN!! He only noticed me when he wanted to. I'll never do that again!!

Should I be starting any heeling work? I thought he needed to be older. I just started changing directions and making it a game. But he is beginning to lunge forward sometimes. Thanks

At 31/2 months Carol, I'm not really looking for structured walks. Its more about exploring on a long line, and then calling him to me to lay the foundation for recalls.

I'd rather take them to locations where I'm not likely to have to deal with a lot of dogs, then the interaction with you becomes the reward and you don't have to think so much about having something better. That can turn into bribes a little too easy, and leave you dependent on always having steak on you.

If you want to teach heeling, I think any age is ok. Its just depends on how your going to do it.

Thanks Steve~

I guess I should drive to the park. Too much traffic and distractions on the way up there. It's just 4 blocks away but a very busy section.

 Quote: Carol Blumlein

Thanks Steve~

I guess I should drive to the park. Too much traffic and distractions on the way up there. It's just 4 blocks away but a very busy section.

This is the kind of strategizing I meant. You are already on the road toward success.

Planning like this around simple focus/ob work with a reactive pup/dog pays off big in the long run. Help set yourself and the dog up for success by making the venue low in distraction. Give yourself a better chance to create and practice/repeat/reinforce the kind of focus you want.

In line with what Steve says, you want to be the best show in town. That usually calls for both deliberately lowering the distractions where we are practicing and raising the level of engagement between the dog and me.

(You don't mean an off-leash park, right?)






ETA
Thank you for the compliment, David! I appreciate it.



Edited by Connie Sutherland (04/22/2012 03:42 PM)
Edit reason: ETA