IMO the prong will just turn on her nerves even more at that point making the problem worse.
I would go back to the choke....that is the point of it is to choke the dog. If used properly it will work better in this case. When the dog acts aggressive to another dog then you as the Alpha have to let her know this is not acceptable and hang her. Now to clarify what I mean; You CALMLY pull up on the lead to the point where the collar is functioning and keep it there until she stops the action then release. If she then continues repeat the process.
Make sure you don't have her anywhere near another dog at anytime if she has a problem like this. She will never be friendly just neutral.
People make alot of stereotypes on different lines. I don't think it is a Czech line trait.

Pat

I didnt want to get into this but I strongly disagree with using a choke over a prong.A choke has been proven to possibly damage the throat and or trachea of the dog.A prong is much better IMO.Make sure it is fitted properly and hook the lead on both rings.
To keep the dog away from all other dogs is not realistic.The problem can and has been worked through but it takes someone with the experience.
I just couldnt leave that post alone.I respectfully disagree (strongly) with the entire previous post.

You can disagree but you are still wrong. You can absolutly keep your dog away from other dogs as a responsible dog owner....this is very easy...it's called a leash. With any dog, especially this type of one comes responsibility.
I'm not gonna get into a pissing match here but using any tool improperly can result in injury. Most of those injuries you refer to are from people using it as a correction collar and jerking on it. This is not the method I described. There is a place and time for most tools when used properly.
There is also a method using the e-collar called "crittering" that works for dog aggression as well.

Pat

No p?#@$% match here,the defense rests,your honor!

 Quote:

IMO the prong will just turn on her nerves even more at that point making the problem worse.
I would go back to the choke....that is the point of it is to choke the dog. If used properly it will work better in this case. When the dog acts aggressive to another dog then you as the Alpha have to let her know this is not acceptable and hang her. Now to clarify what I mean; You CALMLY pull up on the lead to the point where the collar is functioning and keep it there until she stops the action then release. If she then continues repeat the process.
Make sure you don't have her anywhere near another dog at anytime if she has a problem like this. She will never be friendly just neutral.
People make alot of stereotypes on different lines. I don't think it is a Czech line trait.

Pat

Well she is FINE after she gets to know them...but most people wont bring their dog up to a B*&%ty puppy.
With the choke chain I gave proper corrections (a pop on the leash..ect) but when she was gagging herself I couldnt really get enough slack on the leash to correct her. She wont stop when she's pulling hard..she ignores the fact that she's being choked. It really does not help at all, she re-cooperates and goes at it again. I know all about keeping aggressive dogs away from others (I owned a PB that did not take kindly to other dogs), but this is VERY difficult for me to accept with such a young puppy. Im trying my hardest on this little problem!! If she dosent shape up I guess I'll have a dog-aggressive dog <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/crazy.gif" alt="" /> and I'll live with it.
But her being a working dog (that will actually be used for working)I cant see how she would be able to compete at a ScH trial when other dogs are present.....she would concentrate on them and not me!!

The E-collar..
I DO have an E-collar, but is it safe to use on such a young pup?
I have been tempted to use it but didnt want to mess up my dog.

Listen, you have to supress the aggression with the choke. You don't pop it you use one continuous motion. CALMLY pull up on the lead so the choke is functioning and supressing the unwanted behavior and as soon as she stops release it.
Then if she continues repeat. This has to be calm...
I don't know how else to explain this.
Any dog that is dog aggressive should be neutralized but it is a MUST for a sport dog or you wont even make it past the BH. In the BH the dog has to walk by many other dogs and be neutral.
If you understand how to do what I'm telling you, it is the best method to use....and if done right you wont injure your dog. You have to be the Alpha though...firm, fair and consistant.

How about you start teaching focus so that while you are correcting for the dog aggression the dog has some behavior to go to. I don't like dog aggression, but gagging a puppy with no behavior to turn to is not the way to go. Leave the dog neutralization alone until you have a good behavior to go to. Gagging can make it worse, the dog goes into survival mode, and the dog is still right there. Now there are two things to freak about. I can't breathe, and that dog is going to kill me while I can't breathe. I mean no disrespect, but holy cow! choke choke pinch pinch all without somewhere to go. I would definatly bite you <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/tongue.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/tongue.gif" alt="" />

 Quote:

How about you start teaching focus so that while you are correcting for the dog aggression the dog has some behavior to go to. I don't like dog aggression, but gagging a puppy with no behavior to turn to is not the way to go. Leave the dog neutralization alone until you have a good behavior to go to. Gagging can make it worse, the dog goes into survival mode, and the dog is still right there. Now there are two things to freak about. I can't breathe, and that dog is going to kill me while I can't breathe. I mean no disrespect, but holy cow! choke choke pinch pinch all without somewhere to go. I would definatly bite you <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/tongue.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/tongue.gif" alt="" />

Makes alotta sense to me...but what do you mean "behavior to go to" Like after I correct her put her in a sedni or do a quik on the spot OB drill? Or do you mean distract her like giving her a toy (which would kick her into prey drive and probably not help the situation <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif" alt="" />

Its very hard to get her attention once she has something in her head. Im ordering Ed's video "Building Drive Focus and Grip"

But anyways PLEASE elaborate on what you mean. I'll do what it takes <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smirk.gif" alt="" />...but it would really suck if my Competition dog couldnt even get a BH due to my handler mistakes.

Tamara-
If you want the problem corrected then this is how. You have to start as early as possible because it will only get worse. This is the easiest way to supress dog aggression. You are not going to have any luck correcting the problem with a 5 month old fear driven dog aggressive dog by trying to make it focus on you. Focus is good and you need that more and more the further you progress in training but it will not correct the problem. It will have to be delt with or it will get worse.
I'm not going to keep responding to these other posts but feel free to PM me if needed. This has been exhausted.

Still in thew puppy stage.Watch how puppy's interact with each other.This probably in all counts was not aggresion.You have to re-direct this mode.How much excersice is done ie: walks on a lead for 1/2 hour or so.Some type of structered play.Training. Yelling "NO" ?.Dog probably picked up on the yelling thing and could have got him more excited.Be firm and show confidence.Now is the time to change behaviors that are un-wanted but must be done in a calm way.Remember the dog is still a pup and will try you in the nip thing.Pretty normal but needs to be corrected and re-directed in another direction.Mine used to do that and I called it orbiting.Found out that a tired pup is a good pup.Long structed walks, play, 5 or 10 minutes training the basics.Make it fun.Ain't nothing wrong with your dog.By the way running around a yard or open space is ok but walking on a lead, correcting, praising, teaching , is what it's all about.On the walk you tell the dog when to stop, when to pee, control every move of the dog.Also the dog still has those puppy teeth and they are sharp.Your ok and so's your dog.Pup also explores with it's mouth as well as the nose and eyes.Re-direct the nip to a some type of chew product. <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" />