Matthew Grubb Webboard User Reg: 09-27-2002
Posts: 637
Loc: Pittsburgh, Pa.
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Will, I noticed you left the bite suit out of your training list... why? How do you teach/proof the dog that it can bite the chest and the back?
Personally, I work my dog on a hard sleeve every bite session. I start with a hidden for the first bite then I will go to either a suit or hard sleeve depending on what I want to do, and I always work at least one session of muzzle as I do believe as do you that muzzle is one of the best training tools you have to make a dog more "real".
I don't do much leg work at all with my dog as I would rather have him hit high on a bite, either knocking the target to the ground with a body bite or tying up an arm than a leg. An attacker with one arm tied up by a 62lb. ball of fuz gives me an edge against an edged weapon or someone who might have had good aim before! but to each his own! <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/laugh.gif" alt="" />
Howard Knauf Webboard User Reg: 09-24-2003
Posts: 1555
Loc: Melbourne, Florida
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Matt,
My first PSD had very little bite suit training, but tons of muzzle work. He was a gator on a real bite, targeting anything he could get. Later near the end of his service he got some suit work but it didnt make a noticable difference on the street...same old land shark. <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/laugh.gif" alt="" />
Will Rambeau Moderator Reg: 01-25-2003
Posts: 5983
Loc: Idaho
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Excellent Question, Matthew. We're doing bite suit work intermittently after the leg sleeve work is clean - you can add it thru out the hidden sleeve and/or muzzle sessions.
My group has experimented with wearing trench coats over the bite suit ( small or medium size decoy, competiton type bite suit to keep the suit bulk down, and pervert/flasher type trench coat )
So we're attempting to do hidden "Buit suit" work.....but it only works so well.
With an exposed bite suit, we have the decoy hide his arm to envoke the chest or back bite, just like the steps in K-9 suit work.
I wish I could wear a bite suit top during muzzle work, I wear forearm pads from martial arts practice under a long sleeve shirt, but I still end up with massive bruises somedays. I must be getting old.... <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/laugh.gif" alt="" />
Ed Correll, they make leg sleeves which break apart from the rear, they're held together with velcro - so they're not so much "slippable" as the are "break away"
M.Jen Its my humble opinion that all these are good ideas but the trainers around here use a non sleeve decoy to agitate the dog outside the range of the dogs bite.
The dogs reward is that at a certain point the decoy runs off like he is scared. Then after sleeve work and this civil work, they progress to hinden sleeve or full body suit work, then muzzle.
So civil work is your next step in Personal Protection training a dog, in this neck of teh woods. <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif" alt="" />
Will Rambeau Moderator Reg: 01-25-2003
Posts: 5983
Loc: Idaho
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Don,
I didn't even mention about civil aggitation before any training was started, because for me, if the dog won't go civil on a threatening person ( who is in street clothes only ) while it's at the end of a leash, I consider that type of dog not to be suitable for PPD work.
One of the things that I liked at the ASR trial that I observed was that the dog with handler was threatened by a decoy in street clothes - if the dog didn't go civil and *mean* it - the dog didn't go forward in the trial. I really liked that idea!
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