That IS creative <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/laugh.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/laugh.gif" alt="" /> I like the way you think!!!
Only problem is, would this be "countering" or just eating ?
What would be the next step.....soaking our tugs in steak juice? <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/laugh.gif" alt="" />
The way it was done with the trainer I worked with was this. The dog was leashed and attached to a tire for weight. The dog was aggitated and gotten into a high state of agitation, usually in prey drive. Then the agitator does a runaway and the dog is released by the handler and the dog goes out to make the bite. Once the dog is on the sleeve the handler sits on the tire to increase the tension on the bite. The tire is used to slow the dog down and provide the agitator some time to make adjustments as the dog makes the bite. It also starts the dog working away from the handler earlier in the training. Once the dog is sure working away from the handler and reliable on the bite the tire is discontinued. It is also a comfortable place for the dog as they are used to the tension on the collar/harness and that helps give them the confidence to work away from the handler.
If you can't be a Good Example,then You'll just have to Serve as a Horrible Warning. Catherine Aird.
The point has been brought up, that countering is genetic... I would agree, only in that, every dog has drive to a certain degree, even a cocker spaniel has prey drive... and they counter, if you play tug with them.. so to say that you can't teach the counter, is a bit misleading
I think there should be a physical action to call it a counter. Growling doesn't fit into this catagory, IMO
The reason is because growling does nothing to gain control over the prey. A counter is a "move" in response to something else. I've seen pits shake their heads on the bite, and I would call that a counter.
Dogs that have lock-jaw and won’t re-grip may be displaying something about their genetics. They may be in conflict or defense about biting and for these dogs the next step may be avoidance rather than re-gripping. Dog’s that won’t re-grip or out are telling us something, the challenge is to read the dog properly and figure it out.
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