Great, great fun!
But how do I teach to find another hidden person?
1) Does he first be familiar with the person + her name?
2) Or do i have to let him sniff the other person and then tell him sthg like "Go search Nilson?
3) Or do I first have to go with him searching?
4) Or will it be enough if I start as you8 described a bit above to let the other handler go a short distance away, lir on the floor and perhaps teqase him with a toy?

 Quote: Christina Stockinger

Great, great fun!
But how do I teach to find another hidden person?
1) Does he first be familiar with the person + her name?
2) Or do i have to let him sniff the other person and then tell him sthg like "Go search Nilson?
3) Or do I first have to go with him searching?
4) Or will it be enough if I start as you8 described a bit above to let the other handler go a short distance away, lir on the floor and perhaps teqase him with a toy?

http://leerburg.com/trackingdvds.htm?nav=dropdown&content=shop_05022017

Pretty much what I mentioned in my post above.

The dog should have a strong toy or food drive (ideally toy in the beginning).

You hold the dog and have Nilson teas the dog with the toy then have him move away 3ven if it's just 10-15ft initially.

You can't let the dog go if it isn't really interested in Nilson but when the dog is just send him with a "find Nilson".

When the dog gets there Nilson reward the dog with the toy or even a treat if that works better.

You eventually add distance until Nilson is out of sight.

When the dog gets to the last place he saw Nilson he will probably start using his nose.

The dog needs to have a strong desire for the treat/toy otherwise is won't work.

Candy, thanks so much for the tip. I'll certainly buy at least two of those DVDs

Thanks, Bob for the explanation. This would without doubt work with Nilso, , as Slippie, Socks and Bruxinha are always near him watching what he is doing in the yard.
Slippie is not so playful, I'd have to use food. But the other two are playful, especially Socks. I willl try irt exactly as you described..

A fact is, when they search toys, they always look first on the spot where they've found the last. If it's not there, then they search on all other places, where they've already one. Is this really using their nose? Isn't it more using their memory?

Do I need to use a longline or a harness for tracking Nilson once he is out of sight, or woukd you just let her search off-leash. Of course only within the yard.

Off lead it your staying in the yard.

Once the dog is solid doing that then go outside the yard on lead.

I've always used a different collar for whatever is was doing.

Obedience is a flat leather collar but yrs ago that would have been a "choke" chain.

Sport tracking was a harness.

Show ring was a show martingale.

SAR was a flat leather collar.

Walks in the neighborhood is the round leather collar that Trooper wears 24/7 because of his tags.

They learn the difference.

Thanks for the advice. I’ve been working on the method that Bob talked about (using the long line and giving the wait command right before she hits the end of the line).
The problem is (and it is not at all a bad problem to have, just not the behavior I’m trying to get) that she will recall on the wait command instead of freezing in place.
I don’t mind having her recall to me, it serves the same purpose and it’s always good to have her come back on command. However, with this command I want her to actually stop moving all together. I’m having trouble teaching her to stay in place. I’ve tried to “mark” the instant she stops and right before she turns, however, I remembered that this is exactly how I started my recall training and it’s no surprise that she is recalling.
Is there any advice on how to teach her to just stop?

I’m always having trouble with commands from a distance. Even when given the sit command, she runs up to me and will sit (not necessarily right in front of me but somewhere next to me). I’ve tried back tying her to a pole and giving the command to her from increasing distances which, but once she is off leash and we are not in a “training session” she will go back to her old ways of coming back to me to sit.
I don’t want to (or don’t know if I should) use the e collar to get her to sit at a distance, I feel like if I keep stimming her while she is returning to me it may mess up the recall or something else.

Try using a touch pad - it will give her something physical to touch while learning distance and duration.

What Kelly said!

With that you can slowly add distance with your commands.

Add that distance randomly.

One time you may have the dog right in front of you and the next may be 5-10-20 ft away but the dog has to be solid when it's right in front of you first

Another thing that can help you proof a sit, etc is to give a command with your back turned to the dog or give a command from another room.

Again, this is developed over time.

Time, distance and distraction should never be added to the same behavior until all are solid.

Another problem can come up if you call the dog everytime you leave it and call it to you.

Go back to the dog and reward the sit, down, whatever more times then you call it to you.

You two are just perfect with your advices. I learned to use touch pads in different courses. They helped a lot and my dogs adore them. If I put one on the floor, they stand immediately on it.. Yes, for sitstays, for turning in front of me (both sides) for turning like tflloqing the pointeer of a clock and also to give them a reference point for heel possition.

Later on we can use something less elevated and once this works well even a flat reference point and finalley it works without. Also to send the dog away for a certain distance, straight or learning to make great or greater curves around other objects or circles. It's a wonderful help..