Quote: Bob Scott

Pretty much what I mentioned in my post above.

The dog should have a strong toy or food drive (ideally toy in the beginning).

You hold the dog and have Nilson teas the dog with the toy then have him move away 3ven if it's just 10-15ft initially.

You can't let the dog go if it isn't really interested in Nilson but when the dog is just send him with a "find Nilson".

When the dog gets there Nilson reward the dog with the toy or even a treat if that works better.

You eventually add distance until Nilson is out of sight.

When the dog gets to the last place he saw Nilson he will probably start using his nose.

The dog needs to have a strong desire for the treat/toy otherwise is won't work.

Just to give you feedback, Bob:

To my big surprise it works marvellously (only at a short distance yet). All 3 were a bit confused at first. But after going with them between 4-6 times to Nilson I already could give the cue "Find Nilson" and they went straightly to him. For Socks and Bruxinha he teases with a toy (sthg like the end part of a flirt pole), for Slippie it worked first just with food but now also when he claps his hands on his legs. We can now play also mutually, I can send them to him and he can send them to me. Now we will try with more distance.

Thanks so much, it's really great fun. Very curious how it will go on, once he or I are out of sight.

Good to hear!

It will continue to work when Nilson goes out of sight because they will have learned that the "find Nilson" command is a reward worthy behavior.

Wonderful! Until now they don't really need to search as they can see him. Once the finding him out of sight is solid, can I also hide him on top of a table or ladder, make him climb up a tree or lock him behind a door? Or is this too difficult?

It can all be done IF you add those gradually.

Most all dogs can find anything hidden if they don't have to look to long so do consider that.

The scent working dogs in SAR, Police K9s, etc are not only well trained but they are selected for a strong desire to keep looking and that involves the genetics in a dog.

That's often called Hunt Drive.

Interesting! I of course don't know the genetics of my dogs, but certainly Socks qnd Bruxinha must have more hunt drive than the other two. This morning Socks found Nilson sitting on a branch on the other suide of the house, where she never had seen him before. ;He didn't even need to tease her, but she needed some time until she had the idea to look upwards.I think I'll sell her to the Police.

Don't ask to much without the training.

Of course not. And I won't ask too much from rhe policemen. By the way, I'd never ever sell her, not for a million bucks.

We knew that!

Thanks! Feel relieved!

Very off topic, but thought someone here may have advice.
My Dogtra 280 Remote Collar, has been acting up (very inconsistent with the stimulation; some times a level 4 is all I need, but then other times under the same distractions she doesn't feel the stim until level 27 and she has the same reaction she did to level 4). I thought it may be the fit, but it is already so tight that I can't make it the next size smaller without it really squeezing her neck.
So my question is, how would you go about finding the right level on a new collar? Not sure if I do the same thing as before where you start at zero and increase 1 level each time until you see the slightest reaction. She already is used to the stim so I am not sure she will react at the lowest level this time but I don't know if that's true.
P.S. - Does anyone have experience with the Dogtra 1900 or Dogtra 1900 Black Edition ( I assume they are the same)? I saw Michael Ellis' video on the Dogtra 1900 and thought I'd give it a try. Is he just trying to promote that collar, or is it an honest review and it actually is his favorite collar? I was debating between the Dogtra 1900 Black Edition and the Educator ET-300 mini plus.