Hi Kelly,

I completely agree with Randy. My dog experience is limited to my 3 rescue dogs, all with different problems, and Randy's advice pretty much describes what I've done (at least tried to) with them. Also, Power of Training Dogs with Food would be a great help.

In addition, below are some of ideas for particular problems, although I might be completely off here. You may want to get approval from experts before using any of this. The only reason I am posting this is because I hate it when people "get rid" of their dogs. It usually means euthanazia or pound(same thing, really). If you cannot afford to train this dog, do not have time or patience to do it, find a very good home for him. You owe him that much, at least.

 Quote: kelly schultz

he will walk around and get ahold of anything he can. He then either destroys it or runs away, chews on it, and won't give it back.

Redirect with a toy. I would have many fun tug sessions with him to get the dog hooked on the game, so that he is excited every time he sees a toy in your hands. At this point the dog would be more interested in playing with you than any random item. You have to know how to play tug correctly. The Playing Tug DVD is all you need for that. The DVD also will show you how to teach the dog to return the item instead of running away with it. One of my dogs plays keep-away. I combined playing tug with "into my arms" from Bernard Flinks' Drive and Focus DVD, started with praising for even looking my way, now she comes back with the tug and lays down next to me, releasing it. She is calm and relaxed after tug sessions if we do it right (stop too soon before she relaxed and we don't get the desired effect). She is a difficult dog but I think it works with her.

 Quote: kelly schultz

He will sometimes play wonderfully with my dd and her friends, but occasionally out of the blue, he will "attack"

I think playing with children was a bad idea. You have to prove it to the dog now that he has nothing to fear from them, that you'll protect him. When children (or other visitors) come over, put him in his crate. I would put the crate in a separate room. Take him there nicely, good boy, come here, look, a stuffed Kong for you! Not shove him into a closet like he is a nuisance. Imagine he is a very special child who cannot be around other visitors just yet(maybe never, but we never lose hope). Treat him kindly and with patience.

 Quote: kelly schultz

What would I do when he snaps at us or growls at someone

I would not let it get to the point where the dog is in position to snap at somebody. It is up to you as a pack leader to control his environment and limit his encounters to positive ones.

 Quote: kelly schultz

when he gets something in his mouth and won't drop it

Never fight for the item. Teach him to 'out' during separate sessions. If somehow outside these sessions he manages to get an item, I would produce a much more interesting item and start playing with it or grab the item and immobilize it, make it less interesting, if there is no other way and the item is valuable.

 Quote: kelly schultz

he also has some food aggression

Are you trying to take the food from him? Don't. This is explained in detail somewhere on this website.

 Quote: kelly schultz

before the pinch, he would growl and pull away, since the pinch, he growls and pulls towards

It almost looks like he feels there is no escape, the only way out is to attack. His aggression is escalated by the use of a prong collar. I am probably way off here but I am sure if it means anything at all, this is not a good sign.

I thought she had the marker training dvd already? I loved it! Used it for my Service dog and my own pup, one soft dog, one hard dog, made training two pups much easier!

I think she said she had looked over the marker articles.

Yes, it's a must-have, IMHO.

You are getting alot of information here and I know it can be confusing. I am not telling you what to do, however if I were in your situation, this is what I would do.

At this time, I would not rehome the dog. All this does is pass these behavioral problems onto someone else.This is not fair to the new family, (unless they know of his issues up front) and it is not fair to the dog.

I would keep the Pack Structure DVD. If you do not properly establish yourself as leader, he is not going to listen to you no matter what you do, compulsion or positive. As I said earlier, the isolation method is for an adult dog, not a puppy. Since you are having financial issues, I would not order the Ellis DVD only because I think it is $65.00.I would like the DVD myself, I am sure it is awesome. However, there is a wealth of free information regarding marker training on this site. I believe some members have already provided you with the link.

(I never charge anything, I always pay cash. If there is something I want to buy (Ellis DVD) and I do not have cash I put together an envelope. Every week instead of buying my Starbucks or whatever I put cash into my envelope. (I have paid off all my credit card debt and am paying off my house early using this method) When I have saved enough $, buy the DVD.

I would work on establishing leadership, charging the mark and the sit/stay command only. I would do this for at least 2-3 weeks, several times per day, short mini training sessions. If after this time frame I saw no improvement, I would contact a behaviorist. As someone else said, it may not be any type of aggression,just a dog who was not taught consistency from the get go. You should only need one session with the behaviorist. He should be able to tell you what the aggression issues are, if any, and what remedy to use to change his behavior. I would have the behaviorist come to your home to observe him in his normal environment. Remember, there is no quick fix to a behavioral problem.It takes consistancy, patience and long term commitment.

You seem to have issues with the crate. A crate is to a dog what a playpen is to a child. You would not allow your baby to go unsupervised nor should you allow your puppy. If crate trained correctly, dogs like their crate.It is their personal den. I would not isolate the crate in another room.I would place it in a high traffic area such as the kitchen or den. When you leave the house play some classical music,very calming to dogs and will help him feel less lonely. You can download some for free on the internet. Give him a kong stuffed treat or bully stick to keep him busy while he is confined. Do not underestimate the importance of the crate. It is all about control.A dog has to earn the right to be out of the crate, it is a privlige.

I would not play tug of war with this dog at this time.If he is a dominant dog you are going to create more issues, especially when you try to take the toy away. Never play a game with a dog that you are not going to win.

As for the itchy skin, if they recommended Science Diet ID, throw it away. Fish oil and Vitamin do wonders for itchy skin: A good rule of thumb for a therapeutic dose is 1000 mg (one gram) per 10 pounds of dog for the fish oil, and vitamin E depending on weight (200 IU for this dog).

Good advice, Lisa...

and re the video, I agree with Lisa. Pack structure is very important, and the DVD will help clarify for you what you may be lacking. If you do not have pack structure in place, I'm not sure how effective your marker training will be, in the long run...

At the same time, you certainly can be working on marker training. There are some great, free resources here, and loads of experienced trainers. You are currently using a clicker? (clicker training and marker training are the same thing, by the way...)

 Quote: lisa harrison

It is their personal den

I believe that's the idea behind the crate.

 Quote: lisa harrison

place it in a high traffic area such as the kitchen or den

kind of makes it less personal? Isn't the goal to make the dog feel secure and comfortable? If he feels that way in high traffic - good for him. I wouldn't force visitors or any high stimulants on an unstable dog. It contradicts the concept of starting the training in low-distraction area. Crate training in this case. Multiple crate locations would probably work the best. Only have one crate - move it, see where it works better in every situation.

 Quote: lisa harrison

I would not play tug of war with this dog at this time

 Quote: http://leerburg.com/bitingpuppies.htm

New owners need to learn how to play tug with their puppies. Once you learn the game of tug you will also learn how to teach the dog to OUT the tug when you want it back. The DVD THE POWER OF PLAYING TUG WITH YOUR DOG teaches you how to show the dog that the only time a toy is fun is when he plays with you and the toy.

Pet owners are often mistakenly told “YOU SHOULD NEVER PLAY TUG GAMES WITH YOUR PET” because it makes your dog (puppy) possessive and aggressive.This is simply not true. When the game of tug is done correctly it becomes a tool that can be used in obedience training or agility training or one of the biting sports.

Ana,

I have to disagree with you on the tug issue. Never play tug of war with a dominant dog and this dog has all the signs of being dominate. You have to take the personality and temperment of each individual dog into consideration. Yes, you can and should play tug with dogs but not with this type of personality. This is a pet with issues, not a sporting or working dog. Training is not a cookie cutter, all dogs are different. You only play tug with a dog who observes the rules-you must always win the game.You should be able to end the game at any time and take the toy away without a fight or grumbling.What you don't want to happen is, he bites, you pull your hand or clothing away and a tug of war ensues.He has learned that he is dominate, that he normally wins the game, and thats what being a dog is all about. As the dog gets rougher, the owners shouting and aggression increase-all very rewarding in terms of canine play. She does not, IMO, have the control to play tug with this dog.That is a recipe for disaster.

I suggested she place the crate in a high traffic area because she seems to be hesitant to use the crate, she said she did not like isolating him. He would feel less lonely in a area with activity. Multiple crates is a good idea, however financially it sounds like Kelly cannot buy several crates.Moving the crate when guests arrive is an option.

When people come over, I agree, she should isolate him to keep him from becoming excited. At this time, he does not need to socialize with people and definitely not children, he is too unpredictable.

I agree with Randy as well. He should be introduced to distractions ,fear of objects dogs and people slowly,etc., but not yet. The dog has not progressed to that point. She needs to take it slowly,one step at a time. She needs to teach basic behavior, then add and introduce. She needs to start a new regime in which she is veiwed as leader.

Connie,excellent suggestion teaching the dog to walk nicely in the backyard with no distractions.

Thanks,Lynne. Do I get a star? LOL!

Puppy groundwork article covers a lot of issues the OP is having.

Kelly, you do not have a dominant dog. If he likes to play tug, I would play tug with him. It's a lot of help in teaching him to interact with you. I skimmed a lot through this thread so I may just be repeating whats been said, but this is what I think about some of what you've posted.

I wouldnt spend any more money on trainers. You've bounced around enough already. I think your being too inconsistant and have fallen into a pattern of just trying to stop things and not really training anything you want from the pup.

Back off a little and go back to what you were doing when you taught the basics like sit, down,come, etc...

Some dogs live better without everyone petting them. I wouldnt isolate him, but I would ask everyone to please ignore him and keep him at a distance that he can remain calm at, and just observe everyone. Look for him to gain the confidence to be indifferent to strangers.

My guess on him going from friendly to biting when you are petting him is there's a trust issue.Give him some time to figure out he can relax around people, even you. Limit the petting and hugs and kisses from all of you till some of those demons spinning around his little noggin go away.

I'd bet a very structured day would help him too. If you could feed,train,walk,play and everything with a consistant routine he could depend on it can remove some of what you both find unpredictable.

Now that's some good advice!!! Keep it simple!