Quote:

(Lol I don't think "dominant" is layman's terms. I still don't know what it means. It seems to me like all dogs act dominant when they can get away with it, and don't when they know they can't. Are only the ones who make mistakes about that considered "dominant"? That's what it seems like it means. (Is my little beagle dominant? She picks fights she can't win with other dogs.)

Training Rovena. Training. If you want to spin in constant terminology circles and never get anywhere, bring in a discussion of dominant.

 Quote: Rovena Kessinger

 Quote: Connie Sutherland

Did he try to bite staff, did something happen in the waiting room? Can it be described in 100 words or fewer?

See above.

Guess thats a no, huh?

Perhaps we need a definition of "Training"????

Hint: it's a verb.... (a verb of course, being an "action" word)

 Quote: Kelly

Reactivity can be defined as an over-the-top reaction to common stimuli (like the UPS man.

I understand what you mean.

 Quote:

Most of us have had reactive dogs- it's not a big deal if you have decent pack structure and solid OB. It doesn't mean he's some freak of nature- if that's what you are worried about. It feels like you have to defend him- like a child that scored really low in standardized tests or something. We aren't judging him- we are calling it as we see it. He OVER REACTED. He therefore is a REACTIVE dog.

No, I thought it made a huge difference in what I should do. I see that it doesn't now.

 Quote:

GET OVER THE LABELS AND MOVE ON!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! How many ways do I have to say this?????

Never again, I promise. (Not to me, anyway.)

There's a good chance I could have missed someone already telling you this, but I would be working on a good recall if I were you while you are brushing up on markers, etc...

A dog running to you on command because he really wants to get there helps with a lot of different things.

 Quote: Kelly

OOOOOH. I'll start.

Somewhere, a long, long time ago, I think I saw something about our OP being not quite sure how to implement NILF. How does everyone here practice this oh so very important way of life?

And... GO!!!

(I would respond, but I have a very important job interview tomorrow that includes a typing test and I don't want to cramp up in the middle of it)

Thanks. I'm sorry I'm giving you carpal tunnel syndrome.

I have seen the DVD on the topic, recently, and so have a basic idea, need to keep working out details as things come up.

OK, this is what I have started immediately:

--I have instructed BF not to interact with Mondo except to tell him "off" and push him down if he jumps on him. (Nobody else interacts with him on a regular basis.)

--I have quit lovey-dovey stuff, and am doing my best to be very neutral to him.

--We went for a two mile walk, him on prong leash, not stopping when he wanted to, stopping when he didn't want to. Walking with him has always been pretty good, so that wasn't hard.

--Put him immediately into crate after walk. Came in, took my coat off. Realized he had prong collar on in crate and that probably isn't good, went out, took it off. Mondo is looking at me with puppy dog eyes, as after-walk time is usually more fun and games inside, sitting on couch next to me, being petted and talked to, etc. I will take him outside before bed, then back to crate.

--Will repeat every AM and PM unless the weather is so bad he refuses to go out, which he hasn't yet.

--Tried to make him not go out the door first, things became a confusing mess with other dogs, will work on how to do that better.

I need to review: should I say anything when he stops and I keep walking, or he starts to wander sideways on the trail of a scent, or should I just keep walking and let the leash correct him?

And a big question:

Should I not try to train new stuff during this time? Maybe just try to improve my marker technique, and practice things he knows?

Thanks again,

Ro and sadder but hopefully eventually wiser Mondo

 Quote: steve strom

There's a good chance I could have missed someone already telling you this, but I would be working on a good recall if I were you while you are brushing up on markers, etc...

A dog running to you on command because he really wants to get there helps with a lot of different things.

OK. He's fine in the house with that (actually, he pretty much stays with me on his own anyway, probably because I watch him very carefully and make him stay with me, never knowing what he's going to decide is a toy.) We have worked on it outside some, but not in a consistent way. I'll add that to the things we practice during training.

(I'm already good about training him several times a day in short intervals. He's a little jaded by food, dropping all but the most special treats out of his mouth, so he may have to get a little hungrier.)

I think that understanding what a fearful dog is the beginning of learning to manage the dog so it's important to try and get that across to the OP if it takes 100 pages.

Understanding that you can't train out fear is most important if indeed it'a a fearful dog. We should be explaining management along with basic obedience to help. You can mask it to a degree but it's NEVER going away. It's not training, it's the dogs brain that's the problem.

One more try to the OP,
Management is the key for this situation. Don't "flood" the dog by exposing it to what you are calling "reactive", if you see the dog getting uncomfortable just leave the situation, lengthy exposure won't help. Don't ever let the dog off leash in public or if there is potential for visitors. If you have company just crate the dog. Do tons of basic obedience, it'll help the dog feel the structure it needs. Never trust the dog around people.

Those are some basic management things. I truly hope you don't take this defensively because I'm trying to help you and your dog and wish you both well.

(Lol I don't think "dominant" is layman's terms.

LOL no but "dominant jerk" is...and I know you knew that already.

The marker training needs to be started immediately too. Your comments in the vids show you basically know you aren't doing it right but haven't bothered to correct yourself. So to have forward momentum this can be done after walks in the house. I don't see any reason not to.

I'm still curious about the vet visit.

I highly recommend "Really Reliable Recall" by Leslie Nelson. It not only teaches you how to build a good recall with your dog, but the process of building the recall is also building a trusting, consistent relationship with your dog.

http://www.dogwise.com/itemdetails.cfm?id=dtb810p