With purposeful and calm moving on past, no time allowed to focus and stare and growl (but no nervous hurrying, either) ... just calm "march on by."

Yep...very important!

The first time he lunged at someone, the lady was walking in the same direction as us, but on the other side of the street. She ten crossed towards us because that is where she was going. She said "Hi, puppy", and Toby wagged his tail and looked interested in her. She then held out her hand and he sniffed it. He instantly froze, growled, and I quickly pulled him away, shocked. He then kept trying to pull back towards her barking and growling. I told him to sit, which he did, and I explained the situation to her. He was barking and getting up, trying to pull towards her most of the time. We then immediately went home. Today, my hubby and him were walking and the man just walked out of his house. Toby started to pull towards the man, with his hair standing up. My husband "Pulsed" the leash and kept walking. The man was walking behind them, going to his garage. Toby kept turning around and pulling towards the man. Once the man was out of sight, he was fine. There's not too many places to walk where there isn't people or dogs. And, of course, everyone wants to come pet the puppy! I will now tell them "No".
I am not using the prong, because that seems to be what caused him to regress to this behavior.
Won't keeping him seperate from people and dogs cause him to become more anti-social?

Hey Kelly, let me try and clarify a little of what I mean. The way he was allowed to run loose this morning and do what he wanted is not helping you. Its setting him up to fail. For the time being you don't want him thinking for himself.

Everything you do with him right now is training. Period. The general rule is you don't correct a fearful dog. The problem though is a 6mo old dog biting is dangerous and it needs to be stopped. Everything about the marker training,the management, control, is meant to diminish the biting and bad behavior. But he's old enough that it's serious enough in my opinion, that he has to be corrected for it.

You don't need to be too rough, just clear. There's a balance to look for of stopping it with a correction then something else you can reward him for.

 Quote: kelly schultz

The first time he lunged at someone, the lady was walking in the same direction as us, but on the other side of the street. She ten crossed towards us because that is where she was going. She said "Hi, puppy", and Toby wagged his tail and looked interested in her. She then held out her hand and he sniffed it. He instantly froze, growled, and I quickly pulled him away, shocked. .... Won't keeping him seperate from people and dogs cause him to become more anti-social?

He's not "anti-social;" he is reacting to too much too soon, and so far he has no perception that you are between him and all the world's scariness/overwhelmingness. And he has not had the opportunity to process strangers, watch them from a non-scary distance, see that they will not accost him (that you, the leader, will not allow that!), see that he can be nonreactive and nothing bad will happen, see that he is not responsible for protecting himself from anyone who looms over him, tries to touch him when he's not ready and tries to stick their hands in his face or touch his head (my favorite ignorant moves from people who want to greet the puppy ... ).

No to people coming over to get in his face for the time being. It sounds hard, but not engaging and moving purposefully are pretty good deterrents. Definitely not stopping for him to be accosted (which is how this has to look to a low-down puppy who is still reactive and jangly).

I don't want the topic-jump to make this post about managing the dog get lost in the shuffle:

 Quote: steve strom

Hey Kelly, let me try and clarify a little of what I mean. The way he was allowed to run loose this morning and do what he wanted is not helping you. Its setting him up to fail. For the time being you don't want him thinking for himself.

Everything you do with him right now is training. Period. The general rule is you don't correct a fearful dog. The problem though is a 6mo old dog biting is dangerous and it needs to be stopped. Everything about the marker training,the management, control, is meant to diminish the biting and bad behavior. But he's old enough that it's serious enough in my opinion, that he has to be corrected for it.

You don't need to be too rough, just clear. There's a balance to look for of stopping it with a correction then something else you can reward him for.

 Quote:

The first time he lunged at someone, the lady was walking in the same direction as us, but on the other side of the street. She ten crossed towards us because that is where she was going. She said "Hi, puppy", and Toby wagged his tail and looked interested in her. She then held out her hand and he sniffed it. He instantly froze, growled, and I quickly pulled him away, shocked.

Nobody is allowed to reach out to him. You stop it before they even think about it and ask them to please ignore him.

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He then kept trying to pull back towards her barking and growling. I told him to sit, which he did, and I explained the situation to her. He was barking and getting up, trying to pull towards her most of the time.

Your in that reactive zone still. Move him a little farther away and have him sit and try and keep his focus on you.

 Quote:

Today, my hubby and him were walking and the man just walked out of his house. Toby started to pull towards the man, with his hair standing up. My husband "Pulsed" the leash and kept walking. The man was walking behind them, going to his garage. Toby kept turning around and pulling towards the man. Once the man was out of sight, he was fine.

I take a different angle than trying to move past. I'd have him down and let him watch, then move on.

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I am not using the prong, because that seems to be what caused him to regress to this behavior.

Whichever collar you have on is not the real issue, its his obedience to you that matters.

 Quote:

Won't keeping him seperate from people and dogs cause him to become more anti-social?

He is anti-social Kelly. You want to show him that other people and dogs arent going to bother him and that focusing on you is a rewarding behavior that over-rides those demons.

And Kelly, in different ways we are telling you the same basic thing. Connie and I are defining anti-social a little differently, but differences in terminology are not the point. Generally speaking, obedience cures most problems. The best way to achieve it is without conflict or confusion.

Kelly, I spent a lot of time criss crossing the street when I first started walks because of extreme reactivity by my dog. It keeps the dog at a distance from the person or other dog. It also never gives the person a chance to get close enough to interact with the dog. I crossed over even sooner for people walking a dog, or if I knew that a dog was kept in a front yard, to really stretch out the distance and have more success. The change of route also helped keep my dog's focus on me rather than the distraction, and she has learned nice leash walking skills.

I think that for awhile, I am going to concentrate on the quality of our walks as opposed to the quantity. This will probably mean that we won't get farther than the end of the block for a few days! I am going to take the advice of stopping every single time he pulls and praising him when he stops. When he finally learns to walk nice, we will then start walking distances again and I will criss cross like crazy. He used to LOVE almost every person he met. We also got him over his fear of dogs and he loved to play with them as well. He had started to growl at them before the prong collar, but now it's obviously worse. Whatever the cause, I agree that he can't be trusted right now, and I will not allow anyone to approach him that he does not know.

How would I correct him for biting? Time outs in a seperate room maybe??

I agree with Randy that the collar is not the real issue, if you think it is, I have an array of collars for various rescue dogs, service dogs, and I found while working with a very soft dog that the wide Martingale, with a padded neck, and a chain on the end, worked very well.
They are intended for dogs that can slip easily out of a collar, but I found that if you put it on a dog that pulls, as soon as he starts to pull, I quickly wiggle the leash left to right, the noise from the chain usually always gets their attention and they will look at you {most}, as soon as he looks at you, praise like crazy, lure him back to you with a treat...same for distractions. Try this with just a buckle collar.