I like the association as a position.

Something I did to get my dog where I wanted him in a heel (before we started walking) was to glue a strip of wood to the heel of my left foot. His assocation was front paws on the wood. Then I weaned him off it. Ding ding.

I would make an equivalent set up with some sort of shoe-mounted device.

But, I haven't done that exact maneuver. Just saying.

Play ball with the dog in the parking lot before you go on the trial field n hide the ball behind your back while someone takes it away from you. Make the dog assume a reward is eventually coming. In training, start making the dog do more things at a time before receiving the reward so they don't anticipate a ball after every single leg of the routine. This is the part where you ween the dog off the ball. If the dog truly understands what you are wanting from them, you should be able to heel with them with the ball in your right hand with the dog still focusing up. If not, your dog is not ready or there was a mistake in your training somewhere.

Denis, maybe an e-collar is in oder. Let the dog wear it around the house from am to pm or change is througout the day if you are home to do so. Then after a couple of weeks of this turn it on & find the dogs working level & then use it for recall training. That way there is no connection of you & you dog (using you hand to reach for the line etc.) & the dog will learn to come when called. I never used it to train the recall in my dogs but occasionally have it on them when out somewhere that I think that the distraction level may be overwhelming (although never had that happen to me...just rather be safe in case). But there are others that do use it to train past the long line reach. Just a thought. I would try what Mike suggested first. If you havent't alreasy done so. Also, Intermittent rewards are always a part of training & using markers is very important to let the dog understand that a reward is comming is important. Using that marker word alows you to delay the actual reward but the dog knows that you know that they did the action requested correctly & WILL be rewarded for it soon. Hope this helps.

Sorry,I was on my way out the door when I responded above.... I forgot to add that the above post is for the recall part. For the heir command I would take a step or two or more backward as the dog comes in for the recall. Going backward makes the dog move in more quickly & also closer to you. Mark & reward when the dog makes the effort to move closer to you. I also give the watch me command & use hotdog peices dropped from my mouth to get the dog to look up & focus on my face ( my dog know the watch me command before I do the heir command). Keep the recall distance close to start with & then add more distance afte the dog has learned to come in close. My dogs are taught to place their head on my stomache for a heir command & stay in that positions until they hear the marker word & are rewarded. My dogs have extremely high food drive ( as well as all other drives) & this helps. If you dog has higher drive for a toy use that as your reward & drop it from under your chin of hold it in your mouth if you prefer. Whatever it takes for the dog to want that reward enough to come in close to get it. Good luck.

The recall has improved a great deal for the Bh routine and basic obedience. Just needed more bonding and practice. I knew I got it right when I was moving Erika and her from the van to the back yard and she went after the evil cat. I gave her (and Erika) a sharp "Phooy" and "Hier" and they turned right around and ran right back. I had the kongs still in my training vest(a wonderful Leerburg item ) with me so I rewarded them immediatly

I do it the way Susan describes it too.Works great

Ball under the chin is an oldie but a goodie!!! Shan, if your dog is not coming in close enough, try backing up as she comes in, stop suddenly,(thats part of the trick, a real sudden abrupt stop) she should be right in front of you, looking up at the ball. Let the ball roll down your stomach as her reward.