Marv:

The bark on command is rather easy to teach. First every time you hear him bark tell him good bark (or whatever). Then after he associates the word to the action have him bark for things he wants like food, toys or to go outside. It is then easy to transition to a bark for his bite.

Anne:

I do not think Richard is discussing how the bark relates to a SchH trial. He is commenting on breed specific characteristics. Richard and I discussed last night how excess growling on the sleeve with a GSD is usually a sign of insecurity but this is not always true for Rotties and Giants. In SchH the only time a dog has to bark is in the blind. But it paints a prettier picture if the dog barks after the out.

Originally posted by Vince P.:
Marv:

The bark on command is rather easy to teach. First every time you hear him bark tell him good bark (or whatever). Then after he associates the word to the action have him bark for things he wants like food, toys or to go outside. It is then easy to transition to a bark for his bite.
I've been trying that, but it hasn't seemed to work so far. I'll keep at it. Like I said, I am pleased he doesn't bark like an idiot, but I would like him to bark on command like after giving a k9 warning.

Originally posted by Vince P.:
Marv:

The bark on command is rather easy to teach. First every time you hear him bark tell him good bark (or whatever). Then after he associates the word to the action have him bark for things he wants like food, toys or to go outside. It is then easy to transition to a bark for his bite.
I've been trying that, but it hasn't seemed to work so far. I'll keep at it. Like I said, I am pleased he doesn't bark like an idiot, but I would like him to bark on command like after giving a k9 warning.

Michael,

The decoy issue is a problem I run into on a regular basis. I have been working Giants and they tend to be larger than most of the dogs being worked in a lot of situations. I these training situations the GSDs and Mals are <80 pounds, my Giants are >100, quick and strong. Some of the agitators were less experienced and didn't know what to do with a dog that was pushing and pulling them around at will. Plus they work a little different in that they instinctively work to put the agitator on the ground, if they can't push them down on the origional hit they will pull them down by dropping their front quarters and pulling hard. They will also use the momentum of pulling the agitator down to go for a higher bite, getting over the sleeve if they can. As a handler I can stop it, but it has scared even some experienced agitators.

My question is that with several of the more popular breeds the prey seems to be so high that the dogs start barking as soon as they figure out what is going on and in many cases the handlers make no effort to control it. There have been days when I get a headache form being stuck in an area with a couple of GSDs, a couple of Mals, and a couple of Pits that will bark for an hour or more straight. I am just wondering if there is a good reason to allow it or is it just poor training/handling?

Marv,

See if you can find something the dog will always bark at. Present the stimulus (what ever it is, I have a Giant that barks at the toilet flushing) and give the command right before the stimulus is presented. When the dog barks reward. After several repititions , try it and if the dog doesn't bark present the stimulus. Reward as soon as it barks. Sooner or later it will get the idea.

In most cases this will train on its own in the normal course of teaching the watch. Often the dog will automatically bark with a watch command.

Richard:

Did you copyright your answer to Marv? LOL ( As usual your answers are more verbose than mine <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" /> ).

What is acceptable behavior depends on what point in training my dog is at. At first I want him dragging me onto the field barking like a cannon (No relationship to Richard.LOL). Later when obedience is taught in conjunction with protection work more control is expected.