try to keep this short. My 7 month old male mal.is crated at least 20 hours a day. He has a lot of drive and is now biting good again at home. When we go to the club he sniffs the ground all the time. when he decides to bite he does well. We are keeping sessions short to keep his drive up. Last night when we got him out the second time nothing. put him back up . Tried one more time later and once he turned on he was ok. I have stopped all biting at home so he get no satisfaction here. I only get him out to eat or potty. Now we just go for a walk for excersise as I don't want him to get week and no stamina from being in crate all the time. Any ideas how to get him to bite at club or anywhere other than home? I Know alot of sport people would call him a wash and get another dog but this is not an option for me.
Brad . Martin Webboard User Reg: 09-14-2005
Posts: 587
Loc: Ontario, Canada
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Try not to keep him so confined, for starters. Doing early stage drive work in different locations with different prey items is a good idea.
Another thing you could try for a week or two is take your dog out during your clubs # 1 dog's session and while that dog is working just rev your dog up, "Ya! That's a boy! You want that bad guy?..." Then put him away before the other dog is done working on the helper, without ever getting a chance to bite or chase. This should help to build his frustration.
Brad has the right of it; build frustration, not just simply deny satisfaction.
Interact with your dog a bit more. You mentioned that you didn't want him to get weak and that's why you walk him. On your walk, take a toy with you that he goes BONKERS for. Hide it in a pocket before you go put the leash on.
Then, when you are out on the walk, the INSTANT he looks up at you for something, show the toy. Be ready to move it just beyond his reach. This builds obedience as well. When he tries to move to get the toy, nudge him to the correct heel position. When he walks a few steps, let him bite the toy ONCE. Then, secret the toy and finish your walk.
When you get back home, show him the toy again, let him get ONE BITE, then crate him.
That way, he's still getting bites, but not NEARLY as many as he wants. Build him up like Brad suggests. You should also talk a bit more with your training director; they will likely have more hints.
Brad makes a good point on taking your dog out to watch a session. My Boxer is not much of a barker and we are having to work on that. I take her out before her session to watch and hear the previous dog bark and go nuts. She gets so amp'ed up! It's night and day difference when I do that and when I don't.
thanks all for replies. we have tried the watch idea and seems he focuses on the other dog not the prey item. On walks or seemingly anywhere else his drive is good. I am thinking about putting a tug somewhere out on our walk and seeing what he does when we get there. His nose is always to the ground anywhere. The club is on a feild where alot of dogs are every day. I am thinking this is not sniffing for avoidance. His lines are not for sport but police or real live situations. Just made another huge mistake and introdused him to the rest of the pack off leash. All went well as I wore everyone out in the 100 plus heat. the Female doberman wanted to play until interested in a cicada. the alpha male GSD 30 month old tried to show a little dominance but I did not let anything escalate. anyway any more ideas will be helpful
Howard Knauf Webboard User Reg: 09-24-2003
Posts: 1555
Loc: Melbourne, Florida
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Mitch,
What you're experiencing is normal when having the dog out when others are doing protection work. That is not a good way to teach young inexperienced dogs aggression. Usually they end up focusing on the other dogs because they haen't been taught to focus on the man. Encouraging that behaviour while focused on other dogs is going to cause problems. IME.
Brad . Martin Webboard User Reg: 09-14-2005
Posts: 587
Loc: Ontario, Canada
Offline
Interesting, would you just not risk using this technique, Howard? Have you ever used it, and if so, how did you modify your approach to channel the dog's focus correctly toward the helper? Or, how do your methods differ, if this is not something you would try?
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