Yep, I believe the tethering is working better than just being on a leash with me holding it. Which is weird; don't understand why. He just seems to listen more. Maybe because my hands are free and I can be doing other things so he has to wait for me to pay attention or watch me to see what I'll do next and where? Maybe with the leash I have to be looking at him all the time so there's an eye contest going on? Just a thought.
He loves ice cubes. How many of you give ice cubes? He thinks it is wonderful to get one of those. I think he likes the crunchiness of them.
We have nicknamed him "slayer of plastic bags" among other things. He likes the noise it makes as he's thrashing it about. He thrashes most things he "captures" which is another reason I'm assuming prey drive. He fits right into West Virginia--he has to kill something all the time. (Joke for you hunters out there....)
Oh, and we had another training session. He seems to like the evo food IMHO. Enough to try to tackle me for it, so I don't see how it isn't a high enough value.
I made the session shorter and then we played ball for a while.
Connie Sutherland Moderator Reg: 07-13-2005
Posts: 31571
Loc: North-Central coast of California
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Quote: kim wibbing
Oh, and we had another training session. He seems to like the evo food IMHO. Enough to try to tackle me for it, so I don't see how it isn't a high enough value.
I made the session shorter and then we played ball for a while.
Kim
If you have any kind of meat around, make some teeny pieces of that and see what happens. Try using it as a reward and not a lure or bribe (hidden until the command is performed, then mark it and reward).
I would keep the training sessions very short and upbeat, but frequent. No one gets frustrated because you start and end with a command that he knows and will be praised/rewarded for, and leave 'im wanting more. Basic Ob can be a lot of fun.
When he has a command locked in all venues and under distraction -- say, "sit" -- then that command can be the action you ask for when he is doing an action that you do not want.
This kind of motivational training is going to generate a relationship in which the dog (1) derives satisfaction and pleasure from obeying commands, even later when the rewards have been mostly weaned off, and (2) loves to come when called because it means good stuff, even if it's just a belly-rub; it never means that he is coming to be corrected or scolded.
This kind of foundation is going to open up a world of training that both you and the dog will like doing.
For now, working on your bond:
*Mark and reward for wanted behavior
*Ignore unwanted behavior and control his environment so that he is not surrounded by tempting-to-a-puppy chewies
Sandy Moore Webboard User Reg: 07-25-2006
Posts: 2665
Loc: AZ
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I haven't completely read all posts after the first one (just skimmed) so may have missed something but just wanted to add to make sure that a treat isn't given in place of the article the dog has so it won't seem to be a reward to the dog for grabbing something. I think it's tempting to offer a treat (and this may not be at all what anyone has suggested) in order to get a dog to drop an item, but if the treat is given without a command first (like "drop it" or "come" or "bring"), then the dog isn't getting rewarded for obeying a command but rewarded for grabbing something with his mouth.
Kim, since your dog loves the game, make sure you don't take even one step toward him when he has something. That's where the recall comes into play, or the "bring" command. Then you can reward with a treat when he comes to you or brings the item to you. Practice the bring with a long line and one of his toys. If he brings his toy to you when you throw one, reinforce that with the word and praise.
Remove all toys laying around, only bring them out when you want to play. Since he's displaying puppy behavior, puppy proof your home. Put all things up out of his reach. Spend more time interacting with him with HIS toys, that helps also.
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