Hello,
I posted a while ago a message because I had problems with my dog having a full firm grip. Well this has been resolved doing more bungee work.
The only problem I'm still having with my almost 2year old GSD bitch is during the COURAGE TEST that she brakes enormously just the moment of coming to jump for the bite. She has this from the beginning on although she grips firm and helper is able to swing her arround.
There is no difference if my helper runs walks or stands still, make verbal and phisical aggresion or not. My helper tried when dog arrives running sideways or backward but this seem even wors then. HE also tried running back and throwing his stick on the ground like he is affraid. Problem we also kept the distance long !
On the bungee we tried this same thing, helper aggitating taking his distance and I release the dog. And same thing ALTHOUGH I get the feeling if I miss a protection session ones in a while that she goes faster. I remember after doing two weeks no protection work (normaly I do it 2* a week) and I released her of the bungee she come in quick problem she didn't bite correctly then or helper didn't presented the prey well I don't know couldn't see.
Is there any training tricks to fix this ?
I know the nerve issue is going to come up again but I personaly don't think it's her nerves.

Thanks in advnace

SOme dogs just don't come fast. THere is nothing you can do.

I agree that this is largely a genetic issue. However, you may try having the helper start running away as the dog approaches. Do this for a few weeks then gradually turn to face the dog during the entire process. This way, the dog learns that if it slows down, it will miss the bite.

I remember Jack Schurmann telling us that he does 99% of all "courage tests" by backing up very fast (the guy can run backwards as fast as most of us run forward!). Only rarely would they continue forward all the way to contact with the dog. They got rocket courage tests this way, according to him. It was almost like it was a surprise to the dog on trial day that the helper came forward and didn't throw it in reverse at some point.

Did your dog ever get jammed on a long bite? or have you noticed any other mouth or neck sensitivity? I trained a dog several years ago that as a puppy got hurt on a long bite and always slowed down after that. Starting holding the sleeve straight out and running away (back towards) from the dog. The handler slowed the dog on a long line, and allowed more speed as he approached the bite. Dog would immediately pull the sleeve of the arm so there was virtually no impact on its neck. It took several months but he eventually would come in really quick on back-ups.

I don´t think she has any neck or mounth problems.
I went training in an other club and there they say that my dog is used that the helper gives her the prey. There we did the hunting technique (dog on a long leash and helper running backward me chasing helper first slow and staying at same distance that dog dog really has to pull and then releasing the dog) I must say of the few times we did it I see result.
We also trained there with a REAL BUNGEE not just a cable with some rubbers attached to it. This was a real bungee line, this is completely different. And it seems to be working great dog really pull and keep pulling and the helper does not let her win when she has no full grip.

From the few times we tryed it I have a good eye in it and think this can be resolved too.

Important with dog training is training techniques and able to adapt the correct technique with the dog and problem. That is why especially for still inexperienced handlers that you go to other clubs and watch how they do it and look arround. I feel like I have been waisting time now.

Mickey, it will most likley take about 40 times befoe the bitch gets the idea sunk into her head, and most likley about another 50 before she is really coming fast all the time. I would avoid working any off leash work during this time;in order for the dog to learn the fast entry. Let us know what happens. Good luck.

CHAD S it seem that we are doing NOW a similar ?thing that you are explaining.
Only I have a couple of questions on how you did it.
Only what distance were you doing this, I mean from start of chase and dog grips ?
What distance was there between you (helper) and the handler ?
At what speed were you running backwards ? Is it first slow and then faster.
Also you said you let the dog win right away, so no 1/2 swing. I seem to have also problem that my dog doesn´t grip firmly. Although she has a full grip always she forgets to grip (bite). The helper said it´s because she is used to that the helper presents her the prey by doing a short pull and push motion during the impact.
Thanks again guys