I'm just gonna add "and this is just from my reading the posts" that it seems strange that by week 2 you are already doing down stays with you sitting next to him and across the room and with all kinds of distractions? It seems like they are really rushing things especially if your using marker training BUT I will say I think its great that there are obedience classes out there that use marking training-all the ones I ever went to were compulsion based Just please take your time and have fun - you will have many years to practice your obedience - are you planning to compete?

I'm not sure we'll compete, but I havent ruled it out yet. I think once we get through this Puppy class, and then through the next Obedience class, I'll evaluate how he's doing, the agility class kind of caught my eye.

A Bragg for Leerburg, Since I already had the DVD's and did alot of research before ever getting the puppy, once I finally did get him and began to institute the things from the DVD/Earticles..Panzer and I were quite prepared for our Puppy obedience class. Week 1, was like hearing all the good points from leerburg all over again. Going in and out of doors..timing..everything. I got a chuckle knowing that we had already been doing the things that the trainer was telling us to...so credit to Leerburg.

There is another owner in the class with a GSD whom had quite a hyper puppy, and I recommended she get Ed's DVDS, and check out the site, cause I know it is paying off for Panzer and I.

To teach the stand, I used Ed's method with a separate leash. Since your pup was not fond of the second leash, consider conditioning him to it. That is, just have the second leash wrapped around his waist, but do not use it. Probably like the first time you put a leash on him, he will not be thrilled, but in short time he will be used to it and then you can use it as a tool to help him into the correct position.

My pup reacted similarly and for about a week, each time I spent the 2-3 minutes training her, I would have another leash wrapped around her waist.

Kathy's suggestion, if I understand it correctly, I have seen it work in a puppy class. However, with my pup, if you "push" the treat toward her while she is sitting, she would either: 1) wiggle her rear end back or 2) move her front legs back to the point that she loses her balance and falls over. Then, I get a very dirty look from her.

Welcome Ben! What a beautiful dog!

 Quote: ben keller

1st: The Stand command. This was in our week 1 homework, but I've been unable to get him to stand without me having to hold him there

I bet Panzer already knows how to stand so all you need to teach him is what stand means. When I run into issues trying to manipulate or lure a behavior and it is a naturally occuring behavior; I take the somewhat potentially longer but less frustrating method of marking and rewarding when the behavior occurs naturally. For instance Panzer is resting and gets up to get a drink mark the "stand' immediately, Panzer stands to stretch "M & R" Panzer stands to turn around in his crate "M & R" etc...It may take longer for him to understand because you are marking and rewarding in varied circumstances but the plus side is you would have already taught him stand means stand wherever he is. Don't rush adding the verbal cue; observe when he understands "Stand" is a rewardable behavior he'll start looking to you when he stands and that is a good indication of when to add the command.

I like to keep obedience to the basics the 1st year and concentrate more on developing a bond and teaching the pup how to think and be a problem solver. I don't know how others feel but my thought is if the easiest time to teach a dog is when they are pups why concentrate on commands which he will always be able to learn when I can work on growing his brain with problem solving which will enhance his life time learning not to mention confidence.

Back to basics Ben.......FUN!!!!! You are doing great; do the homework but ditch the time restraints on when each behavior should be solid.

BTW not to scare you or anything but when adolescence hits be proud if he remembers his name

 Quote: ben keller

He gets two 1.5 mile walks a day, and plenty of play time with me. I say play time, but it's usually fun activities designed to further his training. ie. Playing Catch...Hold ball..make him sit...stay...throw ball...wait 10 secs then release him "OK" to get ball....then repeat. That's kinda what playtime is like. And no not just catch.

Other than those two things, he's mastered every other command very easily. He's really a great puppy, and I'm amazed at how intelligent he is. Any advice

Hi Ben,

What a gorgeous pup you have!

I'm afraid I've gotta join the chorus here...you're moving way too fast with this little guy.

If you're not having fun, he isn't, either. IMO, at this age, it should all be fun.

The way you're playing with him is good...you can practice tons of cues and commands that way, making it all a game with lots of action and positive excitement on your part for rewards. And, don't forget to add in other things besides the obedience commands, too, like play bows, and tricks like that that are just for fun.

Mix it up, keep it interesting, teach him a ton of different behaviors/cues to add into this game (I'd bite you too if you came back and made me sit 100 times in a session! :grin

Keep those pictures coming!

leih

Thanks for the all the advice, and I was already thinking not to push it too much. He's really a great puppy, and I couldnt have asked for a better puppy.

Couple more pics of him, taken from cell phone, so not the best quality.

Those ears just kill me!! what a doll.

Ben,
I like Sheila's advice because it alludes to a principle that's been tried and true many times.
When the dog offers a behavior that is desirable, mark, and treat. Let your dog understand the picture first and then add the word to it. In time you can use the word to get them to offer the behavior.

He so looks like my dog when mine was a pup!