P.S. If you watch a really correct heeling dog, he may appear to be looking into the handlers eyes but IF the handler is looking forward and the dog is locked onto the eyes, it will pull the dog slightly out of position. I used to give eye contact to all my dogs by looking at them, but I wean them from this (or try to) and look straight ahead as soon as they grasp the concept.
If the handler looks straight ahead the dog should actually be looking in the vicinity of the handlers left ear. It looks like eye contact to the observer but it's not. This is where the handler's peripheral vision comes into play.
my involvement in sport of competition obedience has only come about over the last 12 months so i will not be the most experienced person to give comment on it , but what i was taught was to firstly give the dog a target which in my case was by hand , itaught my pup to touch my hand for his reward, then i could move the dog to just the position i wanted with my hand, after this i would move onto doing the static exercises ans when after save a few months i was happy at his position i would only then take forward steps ,this system seems to be working well in couple of competions i have done up to now , but like everything else in dog training there will be many ways to get results you are after , here is short clip of what i have just talked about
That looks really nice. I'd like to see the progression of fading out the actual contact with your hand.
I've also basically abided by what Cindy said regarding sign tracking.
But then, in the case of what Will said, you could put that to a seperate cue (both if contact is a problem, or if that's something you'd use). It's useful even if you're never going to use the "vigilant" heeling, because you'll have at least made clear distinction between the two.
"Ah-ha...'heel' means don't touch, watch handler, reward comes FROM handler. 'X' means DO touch, watch 'bad-guy', reward comes from over there."
So here's me putting to cue pretty much everything I DON'T want during proper "heeling" (paying attention elsewhere, barking, riding my leg etc).
what i have done is after i am happy with the dogs position touching my hand i will then lift the hand slightly up away from dog and if he tolds the position i am happy with i quickly reward , then over period of time i will lift hand higher and for longer and as long as i am happy i reward , if he goes out of position slightly i have him target hand again till i am happy,
When purchasing any product from Leerburg Enterprises, Inc. it is understood
that any and all products sold by Leerburg Enterprises, Inc. are sold in Dunn
County Wisconsin, USA. Any and all legal action taken against Leerburg Enterprises,
Inc. concerning the purchase or use of these products must take place in Dunn
County, Wisconsin. If customers do not agree with this policy they should not
purchase Leerburg Ent. Inc. products.
Dog Training is never without risk of injury. Do not use any of the products
sold by Leerburg Enterprises, Inc. without consulting a local professional.
The training methods shown in the Leerburg Ent. Inc. DVD’s are meant
to be used with a local instructor or trainer. Leerburg Enterprises, Inc. cannot
be held responsible for accidents or injuries to humans and/or animals.
Copyright 2010 Leerburg® Enterprises, Inc. All rights reserved. All photos and content on leerburg.com are part of a registered copyright owned by Leerburg Enterprise, Inc.
By accessing any information within Leerburg.com, you agree to abide by the
Leerburg.com Privacy Policy and Terms of Use.
Re: Competition Heeling Technique
[Re: Cindy Easton Rhodes ]
#231269 - 03/13/2009 06:27 AM 
Top
Previous Topic
Index
Next Topic
