So Mike, what are you asking? Will teaching a pup (or for that matter, an adult) that he should bite inhibit when playing with humans ruin him for protection work? The answer is no. Teach him to differentiate between play biting and playing with tugs where he is encouraged and challenged to bite hard and win. When the protection work involves aggression from another man, the dog respond apropriately. But I suppose if he showed some hesitance to bite the man, you could introduce the work thru "sport" type training with sleeves which he feels ok biting, and then transition it to hidden sleeves or whatever.
I was under the understanding that by teaching the dog to bite the tug or ball, whatever. Was redirecting the dog. So that a bad taste will not be left in dogs mouth (no pun intended) when biting in play. Such as yelling ow! every time he bites human skin would cause.
If you know everything you cant possibly learn something new.
Redirecting isn't the same as teaching the dog to inhibit his bite. If you only redirect the bite, you're gonna keep getting bitten hard cuz the dog won't learn there is a difference. When the tug isn't handy and he wants to play, he's gonna bite and bite hard. But they DO learn the difference, so there is no need to avoid the issue.
I ussually have something near to redirect the dog. But I never put up with the dog nailing me. If he bites too hard he gets a pop on the forhead. He has to learn when it is appropriate to bite and when it isn't. By combining correction for inappropriate biting with redirection you teach him the difference. I would agree if the dog can't take this (correction and redirection) he prpbably would not be a good protection dog anyway.
Robert VanCamp Webboard User Reg: 11-28-2001
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See, here is the beauty of the pack animal.
It is very normal for a canine to play and play bite (inhibited) with his family/pack. It is also natural for that same canine to go out and kill game by biting it HARD or fight off various threats by biting them HARD.
Same concept, the dog should learn to inhibit his bite with your family/pack. What I disagree with is harshly correcting a dog for mouthing "other" people. You have to decide what kind of interaction you want to allow your dog based on his temperament and your training goals.
For example, I will not allow mouthing of my family. . .big no no. I will allow the puppy some liberties with most anybody else (as long as they understand what is going on).
With an open hand I quickly slap him on the forehead and say no. I startles him and stops the behavior. Then pull out a rage and redirect. Do you have a better way. This is for a 8 month male I have. Younger than that I ussually don't do much of anything besides redirect.
Dogs are social animal and play bite for learning and social reasons. I will suggest this one tactic only because not onny does it work, it teaches the dog something more then bite inhibition.
When the dog bites too hard:
1) Say in a loud commanding voice QUIT.
2) Stand up fast and fold arms.
3) Do nothing and say nothing until the dog calms down and rest wondering what you are doing.
4) Do this each time the dog bites too hard and the behavior of play bite will be brought to a gentle yet decisive end.
The QUIT is like a yelp from the litter and the stand not only places you out of reach for the indiscretion but also play into the pack/family continuity theory of dominance without over dominating. This is just enough pressure in the form of leadership of the group and has no bearing on bite work nor does it create shyness to fast close objects like the hand.
Good luck.
A dog teaches a boy fidelity, perseverance, and to turn around three times before lying down. - Robert Benchley
In order to really enjoy a dog, one doesn't merely try to train him to be semi-human. The point of it is to open oneself to the possibility of becoming partly a dog. - Edward Hoagland
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