BTW, I have read all of Ed's posts and dont find an answer than I was really stupid.

I really want to learn by my mistakes and afford my dog more freedom to go with me to all kinds various places than he currently has. Obviously this will not happen with next puppy -- I will KNOW all dogs she comes into contact with.

It sounds like you've done very well and made more progress than many in your situation ever do. That's because it takes total commitment from the owner, and not everyone is that committed. Sounds like you've done a great job.

I don't have any advice to offer; just wanted to say good job. You should feel good that you've accomplished what you have.

Any ideas on whether to correct or not and about the muzzle idea?

First of all I think you have kicked yourself enough in the head for this-chin up you are making GREAT progress!! <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/laugh.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif" alt="" />
How does your dog respond to dogs that he knows nose to nose? I think the muzzle idea is a good idea, I wouldn't sharply correct him though because I am afraid this may cause you to take steps backwards in his positive training. Just soothe him when he does meet dogs, lots of reassurance and treats for when he does good, Gentle no's when he does try to snap, and I think with time he will get better.

Good luck and keep us posted

Nancy, does he do this in just nose to nose situations, or does he do this in nose to tail situations as well?
One thing you might try doing is introducing him to new dogs at their hind end.....don't walk up to them in a direct, straight line, but arc around toward their behind and let him sniff them that way. It takes a little coordination between both humans, but it might be just enough to put him in a more positive mental state.

Nancy,

Why do feel your dog needs to be nose to nose with any dog? You can be around other dogs and people on leash and simply avoid the situation as best you can. If your dog comes nose-to-nose and is showing "posting" in the legs then you can use a NO maybe.

You MUST have very good control over your dog. The dog should be responsive to commands. Not in the sit-sit-sit multiple command way but a one command responsiveness. If you don't have this type of abedience your should retrain the dog regardless of age and set your standars high. (Not that this is the case as I don't know you or your dog)

I would not take my dog anywhere I can predict trouble based on his past history. If my dog acts spooky to another dog he gets corrected because the rule is aggressive behavior for any reason other then my directives is not permitted.

If you reward the good behavior great...but be careful what you are rewarding. If your dog acts goofy and then you say no and reward the dog while he watches the other dog retreat with his owner to him is doubly rewarded. Once by you and once by default because in his mind he just kicked the other dog's _$$ even if they never had direct contact. As long as he views the other dog retreating he wins so be careful and know what your dog is doing and looking at.

Don't let your dog stare at other dogs. When you see it a happen, redirect the dog physically buy taking your leash in hand getting some grit and over the whole correction caused the problem thing and move in an opposite direction away from your dog's point of focus.

Since your dog is on leash he will feel a "correction", not hard one but it will do is tell the dog to pay attention to you. Soon he will learn if he is going to act silly (even staring) you are going to catch him every time and move his point of focus by demanding his attentiveness.

One last thing "security" soothing words will not stop the behavior and could actually encourage the dog since he only understands the voice inflection and not the actual words.

I hope this post is a helpful look into your dog's behavior. I wish you the best of luck.
<img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" />

Thanks for they replies -- He is fine on lead with dogs that he knows and I like both the "rear approach" and trying it with the muzzle. I can try the rear end approach with some folks whose dogs I know next week. Part of the problem is finding willing voluntter dogs......understandably so

I have never done the "soothing voice" thing -- but am a bit cautious about a firm correction and sending him backwards.....

My motivation......oh.....the fact that they sell flexi leads to people without a license <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/laugh.gif" alt="" /> and I hate being a pariah.

Also, when it happens I think you are right -- the other dog leaving is its own reward and reinforces the behaviour.

You cant get away from those situations if you want to walk your dog and take them places. Thank God it is not people in any way shape or form.

I agree, the timing on this is vey very tricky. I am going to re-read the posts and mull over them and try the first two ideas out..... thanks

You need to intercept the behavior before the aggressive episode. Read the body language and look for eye contact with the other dogs. There is no need to get the dogs close. You only need to be close enough that your dog shows some sort of “doggie” language. The dog being taken by your efforts in the opposite direction will eventfully teach your dog the advantages of following your lead…as the leader. It is not only a good thing but also a natural solution he can accept.

Be aware aggression is complicated and with or without seen your dog you need to know that no amount of training can overcome a temperament problem. While behaviors can be modified a temperament cannot be and so eliminating the problems by not forcing the situation will be the best and most responsible advice any good trainer can offer.