First let me apologize for being inactive for so long. It has been a little while since I have made a post. On the bright side my wife has been reading up on the BARF diet and we are now giving that a try. Anyways with my question

I have been working my dog Kraken in IPO for a little while now. He has the basics down and we are in the stages of just cleaning him up. He is a tank when it comes to the bite section of the work. The trainer says if we get him cleaned up with the obedience while in the bite section we he could easily score in the high 90's, yes I am proud of him. My question though is I don’t want him to become "robotic" when it comes to protection. That is the biggest complaint I have with sport dogs. As a military member I am gone a lot and eventually want to slowly transition him into PPD. How/when/can I make this switch with him. His bite is amazing, to the point where he broke the chuck-it ring toy they sell on here the first time he bit it. A tennis ball doesn’t stand a chance. On the send he doesn’t slow down a bit, doesn’t close his eyes, yet he isn’t growling either. It is by far his best area of the competition.

Promise my feelings won’t get hurt by your advice. Thanks

Jason,
Ultimately, the bite isn't graded with the same severity in PP training as it is in the bite sports, I've seen a Mal with what would be considered a "weak" grip in bite sports give a perp a series of roaming bites during an incident that resulted in over a hundred sutures - and it stopped the perp *cold*, needless to say.

If your goal is to prevent a "robotic" response when he's presented with a protection scenario, I'd recommend that you "mix it up" during training - throw an attack by a second decoy wearing only a hidden sleeve during a blind search ( if you can do this *safely* ) on a rare occasion, this will keep the dog on his toes but the downside of this is that you run the risk of increasing the dog's suspicion level to the point where your sport points will decrease, sometimes a lot.
Your mileage may vary, so think hard about what your true goal is for the dog.

The higher a dog's drive is, the more you can pattern train your canine, a mid-level dog will become bored with a set pattern of running the blinds long before most high drive dogs will - judge your dog's drive level correctly and use this to your advantage.