Cathy Goessman Webboard User Reg: 12-03-2007
Posts: 1231
Loc: Phoenix, AZ
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Has anybody used these?
Tanner is a boxer and he has hardly any hair on his neck. I have the shortest points installed on an Einstein Mini and I still feel like I'm stabbing into his skin to get it tight enough not to move. It slides around easy because there's no hair to hold it in place. I've put it on my arm with the same amount of pressure and it becomes uncomfortable after awhile.
There's a positive review that mentions using it on dogs like boxers and pits but I figure I'd ask you guys before I buy something that's not going to work.
SamanthaTopper Webboard User Reg: 03-24-2011
Posts: 779
Loc: Indianapolis
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We actually brainstormed and created small pads for my pit bull back when I was using the e-collar to control her desire to chase animals on our hikes. They were still long, but we used rubber washers and a metal hex nut on the end of the screw post to blunt the ends. Worked like a dream for her and that could be an option for you. I definitely recommend something blunted like the links.
I own that dogtra 24 hour contact and didn't find it to work as consistently as the shortest contacts. My dog has slightly longer fur than a boxer would but my personal preference would be to use the shortest post style contacts and move the collar around as often as you feel is necessary to keep from causing irritation.
Cathy Goessman Webboard User Reg: 12-03-2007
Posts: 1231
Loc: Phoenix, AZ
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I'm already using the 3/8 contact. It has a pointier dimple part on top that I'm thinking about grinding down. I might also try gluing rubber on the surface in between the post so that it has more surface than just the contacts.
I've also noticed that I don't have to do it up as tight to maintain contact if I put it further down on his neck where his tag collar normally sits. Is there a particular reason that e-collars are normally put right under the chin?
SamanthaTopper Webboard User Reg: 03-24-2011
Posts: 779
Loc: Indianapolis
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I've been told they go up under the chin because there's less muscle there. Lower on the neck, the stim could affect muscle maybe? They never told me why it matters, just that was their reason for doing it. Also, under the chin means way less friction since most dogs have a triangle neck. Wider at the base, narrow at the top, it could slip around a lot.
Anne Jones Webboard User Reg: 04-29-2004
Posts: 3825
Loc: Northeast
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Cathy they will most likely work better on a short haired dog. The dogtra ones didn't work on any of my 4 GSDs.
I have a friend that shaved their dogs neck area where he was to place the collar with the contact pad (also a dogtra collar) & it worked well that way on his GSDs. I didn't want to shave my dogs' neck area to make them work. I went to a very long contact point instead on my dogs' collars. Can't remember if they are 1 inch or longer. Been years since I purchased them. I think that I went thru almost every contact length that dogtra makes. I Have a 1702 NCP ( 2 dog collar set up) Had a single dog one ...way back. My 2 dog I've had for 8 years.
I've always attributed placement as close to the head as possible on two things:
- training collars for leash correction are placed there for maximum control and this is a training collar as well so people habitually put training collars up high,
- since it's often a narrower part of the dogs neck, you can ensure that it won't slide to lower on the neck and loose good contact.
If the 3/8" contacts are still too long, maybe you'd find that the 24 hour style with the contact pad would be more comfortable... I can confirm that it's shorter and not so pointy against the dogs neck, but on my dog I found the contacts to be more reliable.... granted her fur is a tad longer than a boxer
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Contact pads for e-collars?
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