I think my dog has figth drive ...
My question is how to work with a bite suite when he wants hands, hankles or skin? His the solution to work with expérience decoys that are fast anouf to avoid getting biten for real?
Because he does bite the suite very well but some times he lets go to go to skin or upper body. Maybe you have some suggestion...
take a look at the message I have put on the french ring for more info on my dog.
First, I think you need to digress in training for a bit and work on teaching him it's not o.k. to let go and re-bite. There are a bunch of different excerises for that.
Second, I would work him on a back tie and have your decoy fire him up then thrust the body part at him that you want bitten, i.e. shoulder or leg. If it's the only part offered he'll have to target only that part. This will also help with him wanting to let go because the decoy can put a little back pressure on him.
Thanks for the reply...but he bites in the legs all the time (tied up or on a lead). It's switching to off leash work? And I tried correcting him for biting harms but he doesn't understand my corection. So what do I do?
Stop wasting time fighting your dogs tendancy to bite upper body. just put him on the upper body and continue training. anything you do to fight him over this is a waste of time.
I agree! I started the french ring exercises with bite tubes and he understands... now Let's have fun!
Thanks ...
+ what do you think about the pictures?
Ed Frawley Administrator Reg: 07-11-2001
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Go to my list of training articles. There is an aticle there that defines FIGHT DIRVE.
This is not easy for people without a lot of experience to recognize. Once you have seen it you will often recognize it. But until you have seen it you can easily think a dog has fight when in fact it does not.
It has nothing to do with a dog that wants to bite hands, legs or a suite. It has to do with a dog that see's a helper on the field and wants to kill him. The helper does not have to do anything to bring this on. He only needs to be there.
Dogs with fight drive require a handler with a clear understanding og pack leadership. They are not recommended for noice handlers and they should never be worked without the help of an experienced training director.
I finally got the decrepid evil overinflated typewriter they call a computer here to get your site so here goes. I see one photo of a decoy trying to place the dog on the legs with a bitebar or some sort of thing. He is doing this incorrectly. I still would go to the upper body but make sure your decoys can place him properly. Sometimes it can't be helped but green decoys don't go with green dogs. I am dealing with this myself. I have guys that break every 3rd session and can't train for months. They have been doing this a long time and are quite beat up and in their 50's KIeep going though!!!
Thanks Jeff talk to you soon...on the phone.
Ed I have your video ''the first steps of defence''(and more) and I have seen it at leas 20 times in the last 10 months or so ...it is great.. I understand it ... and like I say he wants to bite with no agitation (on watch command) and pepoel with experience (from 25 to 35 years) in the schutzhund sport, army, sécurity... say that my dog is the kind they want in a real attacks because he is serious and would catch and kill (hunt down). They would use him in riots or something. And because he is high in prey & defence + the comfort of bite work...maybe he has figth drive. I think he releas because of wanthing contact with the decoy and the no-experience of the decoys (presentation).
I will put a video of him on my web site working in bite work and obedience next sunday.
Thanks for your time!
I forgot to thank Ed. Thanks for your time.
But I was not asking if my dog has fight drive... I say maybe fight drive is responsable for the small ''problems'' I have training in the suite for french ring... I was looking for suggestions and Jeff gave me one I needed to ear. Thanks again to Ed ,Jeff and Vamcamp
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