Treating a Sick Newborn Puppy
I have been breeding dogs for over 25 years and I still never get used
to a puppy that gets sick and starts to die. This article deals with what
I have learned about trying to save very young pups (under 2 weeks of
age) when they get sick. As I write this article I have a 2 week old puppy
in a box at my feet. Three days ago he weighed 264 grams. This evening
he weighs 485 grams and is on his way back from the dead. This article
is about what I did to save this pup. Maybe my experience will help you
save some of your puppies in the future.
Before I begin I have to make the point that healthy
puppies begin with prevention. I have written an article titled Save
a Puppies Life which deals with a lot of things a breeder can do to
keep dogs healthy. This article will talk about what to do when things
go bad, and a puppy starts to go down hill.
Before I begin I also want to say that this program
is not going to work on all pups. There are so many things that can make
a puppy sick I could never begin to cover the entire scope of problems
that come up. But I have proven through this protocol that some of these
sick puppies can be saved with a little luck and attention to detail.
The first issue a breeder needs to deal with is to determine
when a puppy is in distress and getting sick. I have to say that after
25 years and over 200 litters I can often look at a litter of puppies
in a whelping box and spot a pup that's in distress or not doing well.
New employees and breeders who don't have the luxury of this experience
can accomplish the same thing with the use of a "gram scale."
The fact is it's impossible to know when a pup does not have a daily weight
gain. No one (not even myself) can spot a pup who has not gained 10 or
20 grams a day. By using a gram scale and weighing pups you will be alerted
to the first sign of a developing problem.
Here at my kennel if a pup is born small (around 300
grams) we automatically start a weight gain chart. It's weighed at least
once a day and if there is any question on it's energy and sucking ability
it will be weighed twice a day. I begin a weight chart before I even begin
to treat a pup.
Simply picking puppies up and handling them will also
help point out a pup in distress Puppies will normally scream when they
are picked up, but sick puppies have a different tone. Their scream is
often louder and more forlorn. In addition, they will often begin to
dehydrate. By becoming familiar with the feel of the skin of healthy
pup, you will
develop a feel for recognizing a dehydrated pup. You can easily feel
the ribs and their skin feels like cardboard. It loses its elasticity
Dehydration kills pups in a hurry. They can do downhill
and die in 24 hours. Dehydration is often caused from loose stools. If
the mother is cleaning her pups, this can be hard to spot. What I look
for is a puppy whose back end looks wet (or slick) even though it may
be dry. The hair will look slicked down, and stuck together to give a
wet look. If you see this you need to step in and help this pup.
The first thing to do is to begin to tube feed the pup. I use our bottle feeding formula. Never use plain cow's milk. Cows milk will give puppies diarrhea and make matters worse. I may add a couple of "cc's" liquid Imodium AD. We need to settle the puppy's stomach and bowels before dehydration take its toll. The Imodium seems to do this most of the time. Depending on the circumstances I may administer an antibiotic. This is something to discuss with your vet. Amoxicillin or Clavomox are two very popular antibiotics that can be stored for a long time and easily administered with a normal tubing. These little bottles of antibiotic are cheap and they have a long shelf life because they come as a powder and are not active until water is added. Once water is added they must be kept in the fridge and are only good for 14 days.
Determining how often to tube and how much to tube needs to be properly calculated. Refer to the feeding chart on the bottle feeding page. It should be noted that once a pup is taken from the mother and tubed for a day or so they seem to lose the sucking instinct. This means you are in it for the long haul. It will have to be tube fed until its old enough to lap from a bowl (about 3 1/2 weeks of age).
Add antibiotics to the tube feeding.
They should not be used unless you consult your vet.
Determining how often to tube and how much to tube needs
to be properly calculated. A 300 gram puppy needs 15 cc's 4 times a day.
Use the directions on the box and advice from your vet to determine how
much to feed. It should be noted that once a pup is taken from the mother
and tubed for a day or so they seem to lose the sucking instinct. This
means you are in it for the long haul. It will have to be tube fed until
its old enough to lap from a bowl (about 3 1/2 weeks of age).
Tubing is done with a catheter and a 30 cc syringe tube
(no needle). You determine how far to insert the tube by holding the catheter
next to the puppy's side. Feel for the back of the rib cage to the tip
of the nose. This is the length to insert the tube. Less than that will
not get the liquid into the stomach, more than that may damage the stomach
wall. You will often feel a slight resistance when the tube enters the
stomach - this comes with practice. When you open the pups mouth, insert
the tube on top of the middle of the tongue. People ask about getting
it into the lungs. If there is any question, pull the tube out and reinsert
it. But if you have marked your catheter length at the rib cage with a
marker and inserted it all the way (without force) it can not be in the
lungs; they are much closer to the dogs nose than his stomach.
I feel that when the puppy is really dehydrated and
sick, one needs to be careful not to feed too much. When an adult dog
has diarrhea your vet will often tell you to not feed them anything other
than water for 24 hours. With pups I think we need to be careful. If it's
really not feeling good it needs nutrition, but we should not constantly
pump food down it's throat every 4 hours. I make a judgment call and will
tube 10 to 15 cc of Lactated Ringers 2 to 3 hours after a formula feeding,
especially if I feel I still have a dehydration problem. I think this
helps flush the system. Water (or Lactated Ringers) will move through
the pup much quicker than milk replacer. It will not cause the pup to
back up with food. On the contrary, I think that it helps the digestion
process. If any vets read this and disagree I certainly have an open mind
on this issue. Maybe there is something better to use that has more electrolytes
While on the subject of medical attention from a vet,
in regard to these very young puppies, my experience is that most vets
are not going to be able to say "this is what's wrong." Pups
that are sucking mother's milk and begin to fade are often a mystery to
everyone involved. I spend between $500 and $800 a month on normal vet
bills in my kennel and respect the heck out of my local vets. But when
it comes to these small pups I no longer get a vet involved. I follow
the protocol in this article. It works as many times as it fails and I
am of the opinion that when it fails my vet could not have saved the pup,
If you get behind the 8 ball and a pup really gets dehydrated,
you are going to have to deal with this. Simply tubing is often times
not enough to bring the pup around. Fluids injected under the skin do
more to improve hydration than simply giving oral fluids (that's why people
get I V's when they are dehydrated).
Go to your vet and get a bag of Lactated Ringers. (They
are cheap only about $5.00). You will also need to get a 30 cc's syringe.
A small pup (300 grams) will need to have 10 to 15cc's of Lactated Ringers
injected under the skin (not in the muscle), twice a day, usually for
a couple of days. Sticking small puppies with big needles is not easy.
It's in the same category as sky diving or bungee jumping. Some people
can simply not do it. They will have to go to the vet to get it done.
I have found that when a pup is really dehydrated this
is a "do or die" situation. Under these circumstances I will
do it but I don't like it. I accomplish this unpleasant task by picking
the pup up with 2 fingers by the skin at the shoulders. This creates a
pocket of skin. I insert the needle just below my fingers, making sure
I don't hit a muscle and being careful not to push it all the way through
both folds of skin. If you push it through both folds you have created
a broken balloon effect. Pulling the needle back through the second fold
of skin has created a hole and that area will not hold fluid. You will
now have to try a different spot (which makes it even harder on your mind).
I only do this a few times until I see an improvement
in the hydration. If he improves you will see an increase in the elasticity
of the skin.
Measuring a catheter for tube feeding a pup. Insert from the nose to the
edge of the ribs (feel for the rib line and mark the catheter).
During this entire process I take the pup away from
the mother and keep it in a small 2 foot by 2 foot cardboard box. I find
it easier to monitor the health when it's in this box rather than when
it's left in with the litter. I lug the box around with me. I will keep
it in my office or my secretary's office. I take it home at night and
keep it next to the bed. That way I can get up in the middle of the night
and give it a light tubing of the home made bottle feeding formula that I detail in my article titled "Bottle Feeding Puppies" or Ringers (whichever
I feel is more appropriate). When it comes to night feedings I usually
let the puppy tell me when it is hungry. It will cry just like a baby.
So rather than wake up every 4 or 4 1/2 hours and tube the pup at night
I let it tell me what it needs.
DO NOT USE MILK REPLACER (above) FROM YOUR VET - IT's CRAP!
and kills more pups than it save!
Only use the home made formula that I detail in my article on bottle feeding.
I cannot stress enough how bad the milk replacer is that Vets sell. It's not bad , its horrible. Any Vets that sells this crap lacks experience in whelping and saving puppies. I just shake my head when I get emails from breeders who have pups that have dead pups because of it. They lose pups and then go on the internet and search on bottle feeding and come to my article on how to make a bottle feeding formula. Read the testimonials on my bottle feeding web page.
It's important to keep the pup warm without over heating
it. Too warm only adds to your problems. Take an outside wall thermometer
and lay it on the box to monitor the temperature. Some people use hot
water bottles but I have found that a combination of a heating pad (set
to LOW) under a 2 gallon zip lock bag filled with dry uncooked rice and
beans works better. I make sure the box is big enough that the pup can
get away from the heat source if it gets too warm. If it is healthy enough
it will crawl off. If it is are too sick you will need to watch for them
panting (or laying with their mouth open) and move it off.
There have been times when I have come into the kennel
in the morning and found a pup moved off to the side of the litter. It's
cold, flattened out and almost gasping for breath. This is a pup that
is very close to dying. The first thing I try to do is warm the pup up.
I do this by filling the sink with warm water and immersing the pup up
to its neck in the water. I hold it in my hands until I feel that it is
getting warm. This has worked for me in the past, but when a pup is that
far gone it usually is going to die.
For normal heating, bags of rice are much better than
hot water bottles. Uncooked rice and beans hold the heat longer than water.
You can put the bag, with a couple of pounds of rice and beans in a microwave
for 3 minutes, then shake the bag around to redistribute the heat and
you have a very nice heat source for the pup. These bags also work wonders
for your own stiff neck and shoulders (those cloth bags that are heated
with microwaves that wrap around your neck are just bags of rice).
Use a Zip Lock bag of uncooked rice and beans heated in a
microwave to keep the pup warm.
*Puppies must be kept at 85 degrees or
greater for their digestive system to work properly
There are 2 important things that need to be done with
1. You need to constantly turn the pup over from one
side to the other, kind of like a bird that is constantly turning the eggs
in its nest. If you have ever seen a really sick pup in a whelping box
(just before it dies), it flattens out. Turning and moving the pup will
stop it from flattening out. I don't know that this is so important, but
it does make a difference.
2. I also feel an important thing in the recovery of
a sick puppy is to handle it a lot. Pet it, stroke it move it around.
This helps the natural body functions of the puppy. I also think it helps
its spirit. I believe that puppies need to have their spirit treated
in addition to their health. Taking it away from it mother makes this
process all the more important. Don't underestimate how important this
aspect of the healing is. Hold it and cuddle it as much as possible. As
I type this, my puppy was crying. He had just been fed so it was not a
hunger issue. Petting him did not stop the crying, but the very instant
I picked him up and laid him on my chest he got quiet and went to sleep.
Things like this never cease to amaze me.
Bringing a puppy back from the edge is a great feeling.
Unfortunately too often a great deal of work does not work and the pup
dies. It's hard to lose one of these little guys after days of close
contact. We often think that the pup was just a little weak and needed
our help to jump start it, but this is not always the case. When a pup
dies I look at it like there was something seriously wrong that I didn't
know about. When pups starts to fail, you never know if there is an internal
abnormality or an unknown injury that has caused it to fail. I have learned
to look at it like "I did my best but it was not in the cards for
the pup to make it. Luck was not on its side." That's the hard part
about being a dog breeder.
One final point on this issue is that there is always
the possibility that after days of treatment (which includes getting up
a couple of times per night) the pup lives but ends up having some type
of abnormality that forces you as a responsible breeder to make the difficult
decision about its future. I have had this happen twice.
I am open to other ideas from both vets and breeders
on this issue. If you have an opinion let me know. I will post the good
ones at the end of this article.
With luck and the proper care and treatment a pup has a chance of making
Here is an outstanding web page on how to administer subcutaneous fluids to dogs.
It was written by the Washington State University College of Veterinary Medicine.