Quote: Kristin Muntz

I will pick something that is the 'bomb proof recall command' and work from that starting on the long line - easy to do during walks and in the back yard. Something that is as excited and high pitched as possible would probably be GREAT for him since he ramps right up that way. As long as I don't let him think that jumping on me and biting my arm is part of it.

I have to let my son NOT hear it so he doesn't start parroting it, we had that conversation this weekend.

I'll check in on this one in 2 weeks.

Be sure to read those links. The first one is excellent.
http://leerburg.com/webboard/thread.php?topic_id=26569&page=2#281225

You actually don't even need the high excited voice if you start over as close and as gradual as described. The high excited voice can be for the compliance praise.

You want the dog to understand that the recall is the recall in any voice ..... so you will even change it up much later on (during proofing).

"I have to let my son NOT hear it so he doesn't start parroting it, we had that conversation this weekend. "


You are 100% correct not to let it become tainted.

Hey Kristin, here's a couple little variations to think about. Don't use any real command yet. Just encourage hime to run to you, here boy,come on, clap your hands, move away from him. All encouragement and plenty of reward when he gets there.

Then go back to ignoring him. Let him sniff and wander a little, then repeat calling him etc... You're just making it fun to run to you, at your descretion. Plant it in his head to come when you want.

You can add the restrained recalls later. All you want right now is that its fun to get to you and that its when you want him to.

HIGH value treats, Low level distractions. Practice, practice, practice in every way imaginable. Sitting down, standing up, back turned, etc

2-3 5 minute sessions a day in 2-3 different locations. Around the house and yard are fine at first - dogs don't generalize well so use different rooms, different corners of the yard, front of the house, back of the house.

Keep track and jot down what is working and what isn't working.

 Quote: Mara Jessup

HIGH value treats, Low level distractions. Practice, practice, practice in every way imaginable. Sitting down, standing up, back turned, etc

2-3 5 minute sessions a day in 2-3 different locations. Around the house and yard are fine at first - dogs don't generalize well so use different rooms, different corners of the yard, front of the house, back of the house.

Keep track and jot down what is working and what isn't working.

This reminds me that later on, you'll proof for body language, etc., by turning your face partly away, by keeping your hands at your sides, even by turning your back to give the command (NOT YET .... LATER).

Bob Scott taught me this, mainly to show how much the dog is relying on the "pattern" rather than the command. I saw (lightbulb moment!) exactly how the dog doesn't generalize well, and how people who say "He KNOWS that command; he's just choosing not to do it" are usually 100% wrong. What is far more likely is that the context has changed and the dog is now confused.

As Mara says: "Practice, practice, practice in every way imaginable. Sitting down, standing up, back turned, etc."

A solid foundation for the recall might be the most important training you ever do.

I recently started on online course focused on recalls. It's been incredibly eye opening to me. Stuff I should have known and did know, but still wasn't quite putting 2 and 2 together. I've had several "duh" moments. Not going to get into discussing it here because it's not related to this site, but just wanted to reiterate the complexity of training what sounds like such a simple command

PS
And never add both distance and distraction at the same time.

This is all so worth it, I can't overstate it. I've said this before, but I am still so proud of it ..... a little senior adoptee was once halfway under the gate, wiggling on his belly to go under, and he stopped short and wiggled backwards when I called him, racing back to me with ears bouncing.

(Now, of course, we have gate behavior trained.)

I know this thread is about a recall for an older pup/dog.
With a new pup of less then 12 or so weeks the recall can be sooooo natural.
YOung pups still have a strong NEED to be with mom or the rest of the litter. Use it!
I had a big field behind my old house and would take new pups out there all the time. They WANT to follow you at that age.
When the pup gets a bit distracted then get behind a tree, wall whatever.
The pup soon starts getting anxious when it can't see you. When that happens then step out, call the dogs name and make a HUGE fuss and treat when it comes to you.
I did this as a kid without knowing what I was doing. I just took off and the pup followed.
Obviously today's laws and lifestyles don't allow this but a large fenced in are (tennis court, etc) works wonders for this. For that mater even your back yard is great to start this.
DO NOT chase a pup if it doesn't come. That will create fear OR a game the pup will enjoy way more then you will. Often times if you just sit on the ground and play with grass, rocks, whatever the pups curiosity will get the best of it. When it gets close DO NOT grab out for the pup. If you miss it teaches the dog your setting a trap.
laying on you back can also entice a pup to join you. Your at the pup's level now and far less intimidating!
I still do that when introducing myself to a shy pup. Amazing how many want to climb right up on your head.

This is a good post for the folks getting new puppies who have posted lately. :-)

First most important thing other than teaching the recall...is getting your dogs attention solid around distractions.