If you are just starting in raw, it is fairly common to start with one meat source and add to that as the dog/pup becomes accustomed. I see nothing wrong with a chicken thigh right now, but you will need to begin adding some more variation and some organ meat soon when the pup is having good stool.

I don't know how old your pup is, but a thigh bone for a baby can sometimes be a little too much. If the pup is eating the thigh bones fine, then don't worry about it!

A good way to worry a bit less about the meat to bone ratio (which is, by the way, about 15-20% bone, 15-20% organ and around 65-70% muscle meat, but every dog is different and some need more or less bone...) is to take one item, like a a chicken or a rabbit (or cornish game hens for small pups and dogs), and cut it up into single meal size portions and feed the whole body all the way through. It gives you a very good representation of what the ideal meat to bone ratio should be. After doing this with a couple of carcasses, you will get a good feel of what the balance of meat and bone is. When you begin to add other meats, and especially when said meats are straight muscle meat with no bone, you will have a good feel for how much bone will be needed. Chicken backs, necks and wings are all very high in bone and very low in meat, they are perfect (and generally cheap since they tend to be waste product from butchering...) for adding bone to, say, a steak meal.

Many people buy bulk chicken backs and then add muscle meat from various animals, others feed more of a prey model like outlined above. Neither is the right way or the wrong way, just different ways. Personally though, for a new feeder that wants to get a feel for it, portioning off a whole prey is a good start and then switching to backs and muscle meat is a good way to go, as it also lends its self to allowing the dog/pup to get used to one kind of meat first.

For a REALLY safe way to start, I suggest that people take a whole chicken and cut the bottom half off. Freeze it for later meals (as well as the innards that are often in the cavity).Cut off most the breast meat and eat it for dinner (I have some GREAT recipes for that too, mmm...) and then remove the skin and fat from the frame. I feed this very-high-in-bone meal for the first couple until I get two days of solid poops. The rib and vertebra are very small and easy for even very young pups to consume and digest,and are good for dogs that have never eaten a REAL bone and don't really understand that they can yet. Leaving too much fat on can cause some runny poops... I try to avoid that for multiple reasons

After some good poops, I leave half of the meat on the rib cages, then some skin and fat, always backing up to where we had good poops if we have any more than slightly loose bowl movements. It is usually about a week for most dogs/pups to be eating a whole, bone in breast with skin on (dog size dependent...). After that I use the whole chicken in the rotation. If whole chickens does not seem doable for your dog, Bone in breasts (might be a bit high in the meat department, so an extra half a neck or so to firm things up may be needed) or backs/necks + added meat are just as wonderful.

When the dog is handling the whole chicken, I will add a small amount of other species of meat. For small pups, a teaspoon, and for larger pups/dogs, a tablespoon. If they handle it well, I will slowly add a little more. I add a new meat before I add organs because they usually handle it better and it get their system used to change.

Finally I add organ meat. I give just a sliver of liver first. Just a sliver because it is VERY rich and not always easily handled. Each meal gets a little more until I get to a teaspoon/tablespoon amount. Next I add kidney, the heart (muscle? organ? the debate continues... ), and tripe. To get the dog/pup eating chicken, one other meat and organs (including tripe) I aim for a 2-3 week schedule.

By the time we get to the point where the pup/dog is eating two meat sources and the organs from them, I feel confident that new meat sources can be added to the diet. Slowly. One at a time. And always going back to what is handled if we get loose stool.

Whew! Didn't mean to write a book! I hope that answers some of your questions...

ETA: Oh and a real simple guide to knowing if you are feeding too much bone, is to watch the poop. I know I touched on it above, but it is the easiest way. If the pup is straining and the bowl movement is dry and crumbly, add more muscle meat. If it is loose, not formed or runny, and there was little to no organ meat in the meal (that can loosen up a pup) start adding a little more bone.

Gross for some, but a very good gauge to how the diet is going in that regard...

I didn't mean to put this in the wrong place! Go ahead and zap my response! Thank you! sorry!