May 20, 2011
My dog seems to be becoming dominant and aggressive. I know now I've done a lot of things wrong. What should I do?
Full Question:
I've spent the last several hours reviewing your web site and the articles you've posted. Before I make any more mistakes with my dog I have specific issues I was hoping you might give some direction including the videos you recommend. After reading your articles I realize the mistakes I've made and that I can't take them back - all I can do is go from here, hopefully I can stop this and it's not too late.I have a German Short hair pointer (no other dogs): Male turns 4 years old in November neutered at 6 months. I also have a wife and two kids (11 and 7). I got the dog to hunt pheasants and also as a family pet.
My first dog at age 30 was a lab, aggressiveness was never a problem - he lived until he was 14 years old. In retrospect he was a great starter dog for a neophyte like me. At 8 weeks I chose this new dog because he was the boldest of the bunch - and that's just what I got. At first, my biggest concern with my new dog was hunting and obedience. I read books, bought videos all about handling and hunting - not to be gun shy, hunting close, come when called, and keeping his confidence up. He's a great hunting dog but issues are developing around the house. Dominance problems never really entered my mind.
Problems/Incidents
I socialized him early. When we go out of town I take him to a "doggy day camp" where he plays with about 20 other dogs. I've been taking him there about three years off and on and he hasn't had a problem. Their reports to me are that he plays happily with the other dogs and the staff and he's always welcome back.
That changes when there's pheasants - we put the pheasants we get in the back of the pickup - dog jumps in back too. It was obvious from the start he considers the birds his and the first time another dog went to check out the birds my dog snarled and snapped at him. He got a quick correction from me but he did that at 11 months old. What I've done: Now I'm aware of the problem I hold his collar when we're in the truck so he can't go after other dogs and grab his muzzle and a strong NO when he starts to growl. He's better than the first time but not happy about it still. If there aren't any birds in the truck there isn't a problem.
I have an e-collar for hunting but I haven't used it for in-home training, yet.
Barking at the neighbor has been a problem in the back yard so I bought a Tri-Tronics bark collar - it has limited his barking but now that I look at it, it hasn't fixed the REASON he barks. Our neighbors' deck overlooks part of our back yard and it drives the dog nuts - he'll bark constantly at the neighbor if he's not wearing his bark collar. He also growls at people and dogs through the front window. Although he doesn't bark with his bark collar on he growls under his breath so as not to set it off. The neighbor on the other side has two little dogs that bark at ours through the fence and he'll run up and down the fence barking back. I've decided to stop using the bark collar. If he starts getting agitated in the back yard I've asked my wife to put him in his kennel in the basement during the day (I'm at work) - where he sleeps. Hopefully that will keep him calmer. I think it stresses him out to get zapped for barking.
HUGE: He's growled and 'nipped' at two kids (not mine - incidents separated by a year) while he was laying on the sofa and they went to pet him. He's never bitten anyone but I can't keep a dog that does that. I REALIZE NOW ALLOWING HIM ON THE SOFA IS BAD and only recently stopped this so he's still getting used to the new rule. He's never slept in our bed (always in his crate) but when on hunting trips I've allowed him on the bed after a long day at hotels - a practice I won't continue.
Obviously, this concerns me the most. Last year I sought help from a recommended in-home trainer about the growling, she wanted me to use a "clicker." I'm thinking - this isn't a damn Yorkie - after reading your articles I think I was right. I also know first hand of dogs in our area basically ruined by "trainers" who come into the house and try to "fix" someone else's dog. Whatever the reason this needs to be corrected and I need help.
He's just been to the vet and no medial issues.
The latest was last night my daughter opened the front door and he took off up the street to "greet" this unsuspecting pedestrian walking their dog with barks and growls - he came running back but not until after he finished - that was the last straw. I'm apologizing to these people and feel like an idiot. That's never happened before and surprised me (although I'm sure you see it was inevitable) Exercise - I don't let him run in the park anymore but I run him (leashed) on my bicycle daily about 2-3 miles As an experienced trainer I know you're shaking your head but I'm just telling it like it is - as hard as it is to say. Like many before me I assumed it was a phase and he's grow out of his teenage years - which it won't. I can't undo what I didn't do earlier but hopefully it can be straightened out. I feel the dog clearly recognizes me as the leader but believes his place is somewhere in the middle - maybe why he feels the need to protect the house. Example: If he has picked up an item (a shoe) I can call him over and he puts in my hand. My wife has to go over and hold the top of his mouth to pull it out. There's no aggression he just doesn't want to give it up. I'm down enough about this so no need to point the finger - I already know. I'm concerned about his reaction as I set a new pecking order in the house - will he react at the kids for his sudden "demotion"? I don't know.
Thanks,
Paul
Cindy's Answer:
You are projecting human reactions and emotions on the dog when you think that he will react negatively to your kids at being "demoted" in the pack.
First of all, when restructuring his daily life and freedom, he won't have unsupervised contact with the kids or anyone else. He will be on a leash, or in a crate at all times.
Here are my recommendations:
Read the article on ground work first.
Pack Structure for the Family Pet DVD: Please click in this link for a description of what is covered in this DVD.
Dominant and Aggressive Dogs DVD: I would also be re-establishing obedience training on a daily basis on leash and eventually with the remote collar.
Since you already have the collar, and the dog is used to it this will make it a bit easier. I would recommend our Electric Collar DVD for learning to use the collar around the house.
Dominant behaviors can escalate in a very gradual way, and most people don't see the small things that they are doing that allow the dog to continue to become more dominant and confident. It usually takes a bite or aggressive incident for owners to realize they have not been an effective leader for their dog.
The good thing is that it's never too late to start over. I hope this helps.
Cindy
First of all, when restructuring his daily life and freedom, he won't have unsupervised contact with the kids or anyone else. He will be on a leash, or in a crate at all times.
Here are my recommendations:
Read the article on ground work first.
Pack Structure for the Family Pet DVD: Please click in this link for a description of what is covered in this DVD.
Dominant and Aggressive Dogs DVD: I would also be re-establishing obedience training on a daily basis on leash and eventually with the remote collar.
Since you already have the collar, and the dog is used to it this will make it a bit easier. I would recommend our Electric Collar DVD for learning to use the collar around the house.
Dominant behaviors can escalate in a very gradual way, and most people don't see the small things that they are doing that allow the dog to continue to become more dominant and confident. It usually takes a bite or aggressive incident for owners to realize they have not been an effective leader for their dog.
The good thing is that it's never too late to start over. I hope this helps.
Cindy
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