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My dog is dog aggressive. What can I do about this aggression?
My Dog is Dog Aggressive. What can I do about this aggression?
My dog is dog aggressive.
What can I do about this aggression?
by Ed Frawley
One of the most common problems that dog owners email us about is unwanted dog aggressive.. There are many reasons for dogs being aggressive to other dogs, cats or other animals. This article will only address a the most common reasons.
To begin to understand the solution of dog aggression one must first understand what triggers the aggression. There are 20 to 30 categories of dog aggression. We will only touch on a few in this article.
One of the more common reasons a dog becomes dog aggressive is because that dog has been attacked by another dog.. Pet owners need to understand that once their dog has been attacked or even badly scared by another dog that pet dog will be dog aggressive its entire life. This only needs to happen one time to become a life long problem.
I compare this to anyone who has ever been robbed, mugged or had their personal safety violated. This has a life long effect on how that person perceives the world.
Pet owners always need to be aware of their dogs personal safety.
They should never allow their puppies to be around strange dogs. To do so is the same as playing Russian roulette with their dogs mental stability. If their puppy is attacked, they will then own a dog aggressive dog.
The same goes with pet owners who take their dogs to dog parks. There is not way knowing if one of the dogs in that park has dominance or aggression issues. If there is a dog aggressive dog at the park and it attacks your dog - you now have a dog aggressive dog because one dog attack is all it takes to change a happy go lucky dog to a dog aggressive dog.
Dogs Look to Their Pack Leader for Protection
It is vitally important that dog owners understand their puppy, their young adult and many times their adult dog looks to their owner (or pack leader) for protection when faced with a threat.
To often new dog owners think their dog should try and protect himself and act tough. Nothing could be further from the truth. Our dogs look to us for leadership and protection. It's part of their genetic makeup. Owners that stand by and allow strange dogs approach their dog lose face in the eyes of their dog. Once a dog knows that it's owner is not going to protect them their fear takes over and they move into fight or flight. At first many just bark and try and act aggressive. When they see this works their aggressive display increases in intensity.
When I am out for a walk and a strange dog approaches I ask the owner to get control of his dog. In the beginning I am friendly. I tell them my dog gets nervous around strange dogs and I do not want their dog to interact with my dog
If the owner does nothing to stop their dog approaching my dog I become threatening and aggressive towards their dog. In other words I do what's necessary to protect my dog and to show my dog that I am indeed it's pack leader. This is a huge thing in the eyes of your dog. It goes a long way towards your dog seeing you as a leader.
So I begin with a serious warning, i.e. GET AWAY AND GO HOME!
If this does not work I will advance on the dog with direct eye contact and a loud deep-throated threatening warning. 99.9 % of the time this is al it takes for the other dog to turn and leave.
I always carry a stout walking stick when I walk my dogs, if the verbal warning doesn't convince the other dog to leave I will use the walking stick if the dog moves in on my dog. The bottom line is I am not going to take a chance that a strange dog will attack my dog. If the owner has a problem with that - well that's their problem and not mine, I am not out there to make friends. I have enough friends and I don;t want to be friends with irresponsible pet owners.
If by chance the other pet owner chose's to get law enforcement involved because you cracked their dog with your walking stick (or pepper gas) you simply tell them that you were afraid for your personal safety and that you were protecting yourself from an unleashed dog that was out of control...
The second major reason for dog aggression is rank drive within the dog pack.
Very few new dog owners understand how strong a dogs genetic pack drives is. From the time a puppy comes out of the mother it is programmed with very powerful genes that effect their dogs’ behavior. The strongest of these genes is pack drive.
When we bring dogs into our homes their pack drives effect their behavior in how they interact with family members.
I saw a perfect example of this back in the 1990's. My personal dog was good with almost all people except my 16 year old son. When my dog saw my son his tail goes up, his body stiffened and he would growl at son. My son had never done anything to this dog. This was a dominant 2 1/2 year old dog.
My dog did this because he was trying to increase his pecking order in our family pack. In other words, he thought he should be a higher level in the pack than my son. It was my job to either control the environment this dog was in (which means he was never allowed to be around my son when I was not there) and it was my job to teach the dog that my son was off limits. This is the same thing that all pet owners need to do with small children and dogs.
Some people mistakenly think they need to teach their dog that their children are a higher ranking pack member. That's not the right way to look at the issue. You cannot make a dog look at a 2 year old child as a higher ranking pack member. That's simply not going to happen. But you can teach a dog that the child is absolutely off limits. This is either done by never allowing the dog to be around the child or it can be done through training. With that said the trainer needs to be a skilled trainer. It begins with always have the dog on leash even in the house.
When I saw this happen I verbally correct the dog. Every instance of unwarranted aggression should result in a some form of correction.How strong of a correction would vary depending on the dog and the situation.
Three Dogs are a DOG PACK
Many people have more than one dog in their household. They may be able to control two dogs in a family situation without problem, but the minute they add a third dog they have a dog-pack.
When a dog pack is established in a home the balance of nature changes and it is only a matter of time before these animals begin to establish their own pecking order.
Many many times dogs work this out on their own. They determine who is the highest and lowest ranking member of their pack. Unfortunately some times it does result in a dog fight..
It’s important for these people to know how to safely break up a dog fight, I have written an article on this subject. For this reason I am not a fan of people
trying to raise three dogs at the same time. Doing so requires additional
handling skills that most people are not prepared to deal with. I have
a free eBook on my web site titled THE GROUND WORK TO ESTABLISHING
PACK STRUCTURE WITH ADULT DOGS. You may want to review this.
I also
have a free eBook titled
How to Introduce a New Dog into a Home with Other Dogs. This is also
a good resource for new pet owners.
So the solution to dog aggression can
start with the handler making good decisions as they raise their puppies
and not allowing dogs to live (unsupervised) in a dog pack.
But if you have come to my web site to
read this article you probably already have a dog aggressive pet and
need to know how to change his behavior.
Obedience Training is Not Always the Solution
Too often the dog does not really see the owner as
his true leader. Dogs can often love their owner but not respect them. The solution to the animal aggression
problems starts
with changing this pack leader issue. It begins with the owner learning how to be a pack leader. We have a DVD that goes into detail on this. It's titled Establish Pack Structure with the Family Pet.
Many people with dog aggression problems think that they only need to take their dog to obedience classes to fix the problem.
Unfortunately those people are often dead wrong. While obedience training is an important part of controlling an aggressive dog it is not in and of itself the solution. The solution is to show the dog who the pack leader is and then to teach the dog that unwarranted aggression will not be tolerated.
How that is done will depend on the dog. Some dogs will need to be corrected when they show aggression, some dogs will need to learn that every time they act aggressively they are put in a dog crate. Some dogs are so strong and so aggressive that they are never put in a situation where they are off leash and around other dogs. For
new owners I
recommend that you get my Basic Dog Obedience training video, a prong collar and a dominant dog collar. I
seldom train a dog without a prong collar and or a remote collar. I
call prong collars power steering on dogs.
With that said, prong collars, when used when a dog is acting aggressively, can often over stimulate a dog and cause the dog to become more aggressive (often times towards the handler) . A preferred training tool would be a dominant dog collar.
There are also a number of subtle things that can also go into the process of establishing rank within a pack. I will not cover all these items in this article but rather point you to the article I have written on Dealing With the Dominant Dog.
Corrections to fix the problem.
Using corrections to fix dog aggression is beyond the scope of this article. Its often an important part of the solution but there are so many variables that new owners should take some time to educate themselves and find a trainer that really understands the issue of dog aggression.
A serious word of warning here. The vast majority of so called professional dog trainers lack experience on dealing with aggressive dogs. I know because we get emails from these people all the time.
Electric Collars and Dog Aggression
I wrote an entire article on the subject of dog aggressin and electric collars. There is a right and wrong way to approach remote collars and dog aggression. If you are interested in how to do this read my article on it (click here) .
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Q. |
Ed,
Kudos to you, for telling it like it is. Ignorance is the cause of most of the problems I've just read about on your site. I applaud you for your honesty, and for trying to provide pet owners with good, truthful information.
I stumbled across your site while searching for information on causes / remedies for aggression. I've learned quite a bit. And realize that our "pack" should be treated differently than we have been treating them. I will be visiting the site often and reading up on pack behavior.
Currently we have 5 fur-kids, ranging from 14 to 1 year in age. Lucy, a malamute/boxer mix, age 3 and definitely the leader of the whole pack, has attacked a dog in the past, Sandy, that we had to put down after breaking a rear leg in the tussle for the second time - our vet determined that the chances for another recovery from a broken leg was not very likely for Sandy. The first time, Sandy was in a cast for 5 months, with weekly bandage changes. Lucy has now turned on our other female, a sweet submissive black lab/chow mix named Dory. Thanks to our neighbor, a local animal control officer and rescue worker, we were able to get Dory stitched up and taken care of in the middle of the night.
However, since this is the second female dog that Lucy has turned on, and she has always shown signs of aggression to the point of requiring a muzzle at the vet's office, and trying to "eat" a vet tech, we have decided that her aggression is too dangerous. I've caught her once with my cat in her mouth, as well, several months ago. She's well behaved towards me, but not anyone else, canine, feline or human, including my husband. My neighbors fear her, because she's an intimidating looking dog - although she is featured in the Dog Fancy page-per-day calendar for 2005....someone thought she was cute besides me.
Sadly, my Lucy will be euthanized this weekend. It's breaking my heart, but I believe that this is the best thing for her. I have worked with our vet, and a behaviorist, and the consensus is that she's not going to get better, but worse, as she has in the past year or so, progressing to the point of even growling at me and at the other dogs besides the female. I've seen aggression info on the web that advocates re-homing the animal - but your site is the only one that seems to take an honest approach, that if there is danger involved to people, or other dogs in the home, the dog needs to be put to sleep. Why dump a behavior problem on an unsuspecting potential owner??? I admit that I should have done more work with her regarding her aggression at the first signs. I've noticed that most of your emails come from people who won't admit their mistakes. I'm admitting it, and thanking you for providing a wealth of information on what to do differently going forward.
It's been a hard week, waiting for this weekend, knowing that it's Lucy's last few days. Your site reinforced my belief that we are making the right decision, and I guess I just wanted to thank you. I can tell you've put tons of time and thought and experience into your site. People tend to be quick to complain, and slow to compliment. I just wanted to let you know, you've done a wonderful service to pet owners.
Thanks.
S
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A. |
The problems you have seen are problems that result with people who own dog packs.
They also result when these dog packs are not properly housed – in other words are allowed to run together and then are not trained. The fact is these problems are a result of mistakes that you made and not mistake the dogs made. The dog is just acting like a dog.
Had you used dog kennels or dog crates and controlled the environment these dogs were allowed to live in – this dog would not have to be killed.
So when you say that my web site promotes people who have dogs like this being put to sleep you are 100% wrong. My web site promotes that people learn pack behavior, that people learn how to properly live with multiple dogs,(using dog crates) and that people properly train their dogs and control them when out of their crate. You have done none of the above.
So when you take this dog to the Vet and kill it you should look it in the eye and apologize for your mistakes just before it gets the needle!!! |
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Q. |
I found your web site tonight and it was VERY interesting. I wonder if you could PLEASE give me advice?
I have an almost 2 year old boxer/lab mix (about 60 lbs) who has been a GREAT dog and easy to train (myself) until recently. We moved to a new house two months ago, and he was attacked by a VERY SMALL dog from down the street. The little dog was actually on my porch and my dog Hunter was cowering in the corner. I wasn't home (I am mainly his alpha) but my husband was and he tried to encourage him to stand up for himself. I guess it took awhile, and only when the little dog got near my husband who was shooing him out of the yard, did Hunter finally lunge and growl to chase the dog out. I'm sure my husband gave him praise for this...
NOW, since then, Hunter aggressively lunges/growls toward any PUPPY he has come into contact with. It is very scary since Hunter was a puppy/dog that was VERY friendly with all other dogs until just recently. I have always socialized him with people and dogs since he was 7 weeks old. This aggressive/growling/lunging behavior is NOT going on toward the dogs that he already knew beforehand. Although, he is a male dog and he tries to mount his dog friends (male or female) ALL the time to show his dominance. I am constantly telling him to get off, which he does listen to me eventually.
He is VERY good with people. Anyone can walk into our house (although he barks and growls first at the noise) or onto our property and he just wants to PLAY PLAY PLAY with any ball that they want to throw him. He is good with kids. There was a time that he tried to drop and roll on the feet of the kids to show dominance, but I immediately reprimand him and he stops and does something else.
But I can not get him to stop this awful behavior toward puppies (I think it may be all small dogs). I don't know how far Hunter would actually take it because each time he was either on a leash and I yanked him back and reprimanded OR the owner was holding the puppy to try to introduce slowly so he just backed away past the electric fence (which by the way the owner got scratched in the lunge/growl/attack). Also by the way, this has happened in a park, in a vet's waiting room, AND on my property.
Please help. What can I do? What can I read to learn to break this habit? I'll do whatever you think will work EVERYDAY if I have to.
Caryn |
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A. |
Your husband made a serious mistake. It will have a life long effect on your dog. You are not going to change what happened, now you have to figure out how to deal with the results of doing something stupid. |
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Q. |
I would like your advice. I just got back from taking my 16-month-old intact male rottie to the vet to be put down. Never showed any signs of aggression. Never growled at anything or anybody. Friendliest dog you ever met. Everybody loved him. I work at home, had this dog with me constantly - no long separations. This morning we went down to the barn as we do every morning to feed the other animals. He is the only housepet we own. I let the two labs out of their kennel as I do every morning, and held onto Griz's collar to give the labs a head start (they like to run and play together). We have been doing this for over a year. Today, as I held onto the collar, Griz turned and bit me in the thigh. He broke skin through the jeans, in fact I have a nice little hole in my thigh. I was very angry and grabbed him by the scruff (roughly) and told him no! He made no further aggressive moves towards me. Had this been my 14-year-old daughter he bit - I would have shot the dog myself. I felt if he would bite me for simply restraining him, I could no longer trust him. My vet felt the same way.
Should I have seen this coming? I have had many dogs in my life - including a GS and a Dobie. Never had my dog bite me. I believe strongly in discipline - but have never beat my dogs. I don't want this to happen again, but I have always liked large dogs will eventually get another one. Question - got any idea what went wrong? Should I have seen this coming? What should I look for in a puppy that I missed this time?
Ann |
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A. |
You made a number of mistakes.
1- You should not have tried to keep an intact male Rot as a house dog. You found out why. The dog should have been neutered or kept in a dog kennel.
2- You should have trained this dog. Training would have helped establish your rank as pack leader. The dog did not see you as his leader. If he did he would not have bitten you.
3- Dogs develop problems with rank within the pack when they go through maturity. This begins at 15 to 36 months of age. When a dog has a strong pack drive it needs to be trained and it needs to belong to an owner who understands pack drive. You do not understand this or you would not have done the things you did. Read the article I have written titled Dealing with Dominant Dogs.
4- It is too bad that this had to happen. I think that had this dog had a different owner, one who did a little research before they put their dog to sleep, or one who did a little research before they got to this point - the dog could have lived a normal life. |
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Q. |
I'm not sure what to do with my nearly 6-year-old lab retriever. He gets along with most people, but he shows aggression toward one man in my neighborhood.
Shortly after we moved to the neighborhood three years ago, two of the man's
golden retrievers kept getting loose and they came into our yard twice and got into a fight with our dog. Shortly after that our dog barked whenever the man loaded up those two dogs in particular in the back of his truck. The man has several other dogs and if neither of those was in the truck he wouldn't bark.
Now our dog constantly barks at this man, whether his dogs are with him or not. He could be eating or sleeping or playing and he will drop what he's doing to bark at this man. We think the man may have done something to him, and some neighbors suspect that as well.
Our dog is fine with all other humans. He is on an underground fence and will sometimes chase other dogs out of the yard. He won't start a fight unless they start one.
Is there anything that we could do to change this behavior, or is it too late? |
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A. |
No matter what the reason - EVERY SINGLE ACT of unwarranted aggression MUST be met with a stiff correction. No exceptions.
You are the pack leader - you are the one who is supposed to determine who and when to fight someone - not the dog. Dogs instinctually know this. Yours knows he can get by with being a dink so he does.
If this were my dog I would be training with an e-collar. In a month or so I will be releasing a training DVD on e-collar use for the pet owner. It will be announced on my Table of Contents. |
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Q. |
Hello, my name is Melissa and I have an approx. 8 month old Great Dane/Boxer cross female.
To make a long story short, my ex and I got her unexpectantly (she was thrown out of a car window at approx. 3 months old) and now my ex and I are no longer together. He kept her up until last weekend (Aug. 19, 2006) where my new boyfriend went and picked her up because my ex said he couldnt have her anymore because she kept attacking his roomates dog (male bulldog).
Needless to say when my boyfriend and his friends pulled up to get Nimh, they pulled up to her being punched in the back of her head by my ex as she was apparently fighting with the bulldog again. Everything was fine for the first couple of days once my boyfriend got her home, but she has started literally attacking my boyfriends dogs (he has 3 of them... a cockapoo, a cockapoo/yorkie cross and a purebred boxer who is outside by her choice) anytime they go near the food bowl, and has started just laying down near the bowl and growling at any of the dogs that comes near. His boxer is about 5 yrs old and that is where Nimh has been staying is outside with her, because she grabs the two smaller dogs by there backs when she goes after them.
Anytime my boyfriend raises her voice or goes to grab her collar to break it up, she litterally pisses herself because she thinks she is going to get beaten for it, so we know that she knows its wrong (and no my boyfriend and i have never beat her, but yes my ex has), but just can't control herself?
Before I left the US to come back to Canada when my ex and I were still together (shortly after getting Nimh), I had her all the time and I was training her and she was doing really well... well my ex neglected her and she started messing all over the house and destroying things... and then when he moved she started attacking the bulldog where he is at now, now she is going after my boyfriend's dogs.
I am worried that he has wrecked my dog, and if this keeps up I will have to put her down (she went after the boxer's throat, but released as soon as my boyfriend said something and grabbed her collar, but she also pee'd everywhere).
If you could give us any advice it would be greatly appreciated.
I had an aggressive dog with food before (my parents still have him, and he is the most wonderful dog), I broke him of his habit with a muzzle anytime he showed over aggressivness (he's was towards people, and he even bit my mother twice drawing blood) and by handing feeding him as well... he is now about 10 years old, and I still wouldnt stick my hand in his bowl nor anyone else in my family (well except my nephew but he was just a baby at the time and didn't understand, we had to teach him, but Chase never showed any signs of aggression towards him, he always just backed off and walked away until my nephew came to him with a handful of dog food.)
So I do have faith that something can be done with Nimh, I just can't be there yet until next week... Would the fact that I was the dominat one before have any effect now even though I haven't seen her in 5 months? Would the muzzle thing work again?
Ok I think I've rambled enough, if you could offer any advice it would be greatly appreciated.
Thank you so much,
Melissa |
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A. |
To a great extent dogs live in the present and not the past. This means if you change the way you live with this dog today you can fix this problem.
To begin with you own a dog pack and you don't understand pack structure. I have written extensively on dominance and aggression.
If this were my dog I would be using a dog crate to keep it away from these other dogs. Read the article I wrote titled HOW TO INTRODUCE A NEW DOG INTO A HOME WITH OTHER DOGS. You will see the mistakes YOU MADE when you brought this dog home.
I would also start with serious obedience training TODAY. Get my Basic Dog Obedience DVD and do this correctly.
Not knowing this dog I might also train it with a remote collar. If you read the description of my training program with it you will see why I never DON'T use a collar anymore.
So in closing this problem is man made and can be fixed if you make the effort to try. |
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Q. |
Hello Mr. Frawley,
My wife and I recently purchased and recieved your video on e-collar training, and after watching it, we believe it will be a great help with our dog. We rescued our dog (Jake) from our local humane society about 3-4 months ago; we believe he is a 18 month old German Shepherd mix (looks to be part Husky perhaps). Anyway, we have taken him through a first level obediance class and have been able to make huge gains with him. He was very mouthy and would jump up on visitors and ourselves when we first brought him home (which by the way seemed to be encouraged behaviour - play - at this particular branch). We have brought him to a point where he will wait for us to go up or down the stairs, go through doors, go to bed at night (his crate) as well as sit, down, stay; most importantly he doesn't mouth us or jump up on people (very rarely jumps and is then corrected). Also, during play he will always give up his toys shows no reaction when we put them away. The trainer we use describes our dog as very dominant, but not agressive.
We believe that we are ready to take our training to a new level by adding more distractions, as he is very good inside the house but not great outside. He is ok outside and will walk to heal and doesn't pull on the leash and is generally focused on me; unitl he sees another dog or any animal for that matter and then he won't respond to commands (until he is given a hard correction then he may sit, but stays very focused on the other animal) and even his name. We do walk him on a choke collar which only seems to be mildly effective, even when given a tough correction (we haven't used a prong collar on him based on our trainer saying she thinks he might show handler aggression - I don't, but then I am not as experienced as our trainer or yourself) I am going to guess that you will say this is a pack order issue (as it shouldn't matter if we are inside or out, if I am truly pack leader he should fall into place - I read and re-read your article of pack structure regularly, I guess I have some more work to go) We are about 1 week into conditioning jake to wearing his e-collar and he doesn't put up any resistance and seems to be getting used to it. He doesn't scratch at it and he even naps with it on, so hopefully this will be a good start to getting him conditioned; I really agree with your idea of having a dog that will mind you based on YOUR voice and not just because he is wearing an e-collar and this is our ultimate goal. I guess my question is two-fold; 1) what leve correction (1-10) would you give a dog that shows excitement when is sees another animal? 2) Is an animal that shows excitement towards another animal always displaying animal agression? The reason for my second question is because there is a part on the your video where you talk about dog aggression and that you start your correction at the highest level on the e-collar - this was my understanding anyway. I am prepared to do this if necessary, however, I do not want to ever over correct my dog.
I would be interested and thankful to hear any feedback with regards to my email and questions!
Sincere Thanks,
Laurence |
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A. |
I would like to say that when I take my dog out for walks I always have the remote collar on the dog. I may not use it very often but it is always on the dog. It’s my emergency brake – so to speak.
So don’t set yourself up to think you will get the dog to mind a voice command and NOT NEED TO HAVE HIM WEAR THE COLLAR. That could result in a tragedy. I never took my patrol dog on a call out without his collar on. I seldom had to use it.
In regard to your second question. It does not sound like your dog is crazy dog aggressive. Those are the dogs that need high level stimulation the instant they SEE ANOTHER DOG – not WHEN THEY LIGHT UP ON ANOTHER DOG.
If I had your dog I would experiment with the levels until I was able to find the level that the dog was more concerned with minding than it was concerned with the other dog it saw. With that said, train with the collar first. Don’t just jump into walks in areas where there are other dogs. Do your recall work in your yard with a long line on and that type of thing, use food as a motivator. There is no hurry here. |
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